Musings of a Tour Director

September 17, 2022 By Patty Moss

MAINE: A Windjamming & Culinary Adventure

August 24 – Sept 2, 2022

Maine – it’s a classic summer vacation but this one had some unique twists. Bar Harbor, Acadia trails, sailing on a 1922 vintage schooner. the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens and a couple of busy days in Portland with history guides, lighthouses and culinary stops. All made for an enjoyable trip for guests, some of which had never sailed or been to Maine. With a group of four good friends and some new ones + a daughter, there were many memorable experiences we all hold. Who can beat the cool sea air, watching the sailing wizards at work, seeing the coastline breeze by and tasting Maine’s fresh farm-to-table cuisine?

Acadia National Park

A day in stunning Acadia with a walk on Ocean Path, Cadillac Mountain summit, stops in Northeast Harbor and Asticou Gardens. Lobster rolls and creative salads, too.

Schooner Ladona, Rockland

A 4-day sailing cruise, stunning Penobscot Bay scenery on a beautiful wooden sail boat/yacht. Anna, our chef, prepared 3 full meals/day complete with charcuterie trays and wine every evening. Captain JR Braugh and crew did an amazing job sailing the boat. (Almost) no rain – what a gift! Everyone loved the ‘gathering spot’ over good food complete with party lights – so much silliness and many good belly laughs!

Evenings on the Schooner

Always good conversation, new friends and wine! A great time to throw all our cares away.

The Captain & Crew’s Onshore Lobster Bake

The best lobster anyone had ever eaten – freshly steamed in seaweed – eating lobster on the beach with your fingers, butter running down – I am convinced lobster will never be the same.

Simple Daily Activities

Onshore visits to fishing villages, paddleboarding and swimming. Very chilly water and very starry nights! Some thought ahead and brought their sleeping bags to sleep on deck. I love that no one took themselves too seriously, turned off their phones (most of the time) and got back to basics.

Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens

The beautiful botanical gardens in Boothbay Harbor. They were founded by locals who had a great idea and made it happen. It is still run by local volunteers. Some of it is on the coast. Do not miss this if ever in the area!

Portland

Lighthouses, historic sites, the working harbor and glorious food. Hand-cut Belgian duckfat fries, craft beer, Standard Baking Company treats and the BEST closing dinner at Scales Restaurant!

“There is nothing that brings me more joy than to see a group of people make new friends through shared travel experiences! My job is complete.” ~ Patty

17 Reasons Everyone Should Visit New Zealand (At Least Once)

September 16, 2022 By Patty Moss

New Zealand’s Prime Minster, Jacinda Ardern

New Zealand is one of the most sought-after destinations in the world. With snow-capped mountains, stunning beaches, ancient glaciers, rainforests, fiords, a rich history, copious amounts of wine and cutting-edge cuisine, it doesn’t get much better. In short, everyone should visit New Zealand at least once in their lifetime. Here’s why…

kiwi-people

Kiwi People

Kiwis – the name derives from the kiwi bird, the native flightless bird that is the national symbol of New Zealand. New Zealanders are known as Kiwis – an endearing name for its people. Kiwis are friendly and down-to-earth people who embrace the spirit of hospitality. With a patchwork history of Māori, European, Pacific Islands and Asian influences, the Kiwis are a melting pot of cultures. Kiwis share in the values of politeness, caring and supporting each other. They love the great outdoors and delight in activities that make the most of their spectacular landscapes. How can you embrace the spirit of the Kiwi people? Strike up a conversation and see what happens!

Indigenous Maori People

There aren’t many places in the world that preserve and respect their indigenous culture as New Zealand. The Māori were the first inhabitants of New Zealand arriving over 1000 years ago. Originating from Polynesia, the Māori culture influences the history, language, arts and traditions of New Zealand’s identity. Learn about their fascinating myths and legends from passionate Māori guides, visit a ‘marae’ (meeting/celebration grounds), watch a cultural performance or observe Māori woodcarvers and weavers at work.

Beautiful Beaches

Countless amazing beaches line the coastline of New Zealand. The islands are known for their jaw-dropping stretches of sand and azure waters. From the whitest sand beach (then kick it up a notch) to beautiful golden sand beaches to those that look you are in Thailand, the choices are incredibly scenic and inspiring. They are often framed by hiking trails, lush forests, giant ferns, volcanic rock, vineyards and cityscapes.

World famous wines

World Famous Wines

Much of the fame with New Zealand wines comes from the Malborough region on South Island and one varietal – Sauvignon Blanc. Other regions that produce notable wines are: Hawkes Bay (Bordeaux-style reds, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris), Central Otago (Pinot Noir, Rosé) and Waiheke Island (reds and whites).

Glaciers

There are many glaciers in New Zealand. Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers are the largest and located relatively close to each other on the west coast of South Island. They descend down from the Southern Alps and flow almost to sea level. They are the only two glaciers in the world surrounded by rainforest. Visitors can hike to the base of the glaciers, take a scenic helicopter ride, walk on the top or heli-ice climb.

Native Wildlife

New Zealand is home to some of the most diverse wildlife you’ll ever see. Native birds, marine mammals (whales, dolphins, sea lions, fur seals, yellow-eyed penguins), fish and reptiles – are some of the many unique critters to discover. The iconic kiwi (lower case if talking about birds vs. humans), is flightless, has hair-like feather and strong legs but no tail. New Zealand is known as the seabird capital of the world and is also home to forest birds that live nowhere else on earth. There are no snakes, deadly spiders, killer jellyfish or other venomous creepy crawlies in New Zealand.

New Zealand Lamb

In New Zealand, there are more sheep than people. New Zealand is the main producer of lamb in the world. Lamb from New Zealand is smaller than American lamb. It is grass-fed throughout its life and tends to have a more pronounced flavor. It is slaughtered at a younger age. So, despite a lack of grain feeding and lesser marbling, it is tender and delicious.

Walking and Hiking

Walks and Hikes

Walking and hiking in New Zealand is the best way to see/explore the wilderness and variety of landscapes. With thousands of miles of tracks, there are walking and hiking experiences to suit all levels of fitness. Welcome to a walker’s paradise, where a network of trails wind past rugged coastlines, through farmlands, river valleys, towering forests, around lakes and dramatic mountain ranges. If there is a special place or something remarkable to see, you can be sure there’s a short walk or day hike close by.

Aoraki Mount Cook

Aoraki (Māori for ‘cloud piercer’) Mount Cook National Park is New Zealand’s Mount Everest. At 12,218 feet, It is alpine in the purest sense. The area boasts skyscraping peaks, glaciers and permanent show fields. Although Mount Cook (in the Southern Alps range) encompasses 23 peaks almost 10,000 feet high, it is very accessible. Mountaineers, heli-skiers and skiers love this region while less skilled adventurers find plenty of satisfaction with the mountain walks that lead to alpine meadows, herb fields and spectacular glacier views. Encounters with the ‘kea’ (mountain parrots) are part of the fun.

Wine & Cheese Tasting

Taste your way around New Zealand and you’ll discover food and wine that’s original, world-class and fresh from the source. Kiwis have developed a discerning palate when it comes to wine reflected in the number of high-quality wineries and vineyards throughout the country. New Zealand is also famous for its cheeses. Hard cheese, soft cheese, blue cheese and everything in between are produced locally and enjoyed with domestic wines.

Pristine Lakes

New Zealand’s crystal blue lakes will astound anyone who sees them. New Zealand has the largest collection of the most beautiful rivers and lakes in the world. From serene waters to hot springs to geothermal pools, the natural beauty is unparalleled. Lakes in New Zealand will make you believe in heaven!

Fresh seafood platter at a restaurant on the harbour at Queenstown, New Zealand

Fresh Seafood

Fresh, diverse and delicious – Kiwis love their food. With over 8600 miles of coastline, New Zealand offers some of the most amazizng seafood. Talented chefs have developed a distinct Pacific Rim cuisine. Expect to indulge in plenty of seafood like fresh fish, Green-Lipped, mussels, Rock lobster, Bluff oysters, scallops and abalone. Crayfish and Mt. Cook Salmon are freshwater options. Enjoy the friendly, laidback atmosphere wherever you eat. Although there are many gourmet restaurants, Kiwis still love to keep things light.

Fiordland

Fiordland is one of the most dramatic and breathtaking regions of New Zealand. Fiordland National Park is the UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes Milford, Dusky and Doubtful Sounds. Milford Sound was described by Rudyard Kipling as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’. Situated on the west coast of South Island, hours from the nearest town, is Milford Sound where plunging cliffs and cascading waterfalls meet inky dark waters. Within the steep and narrow glacially-carved valleys is a treasure-trove of ecological delights. Watch dolphins, seals and penguins play in the water or sit under the waterfalls. The waterfalls are especially spectacular on rainy days. Milford Sound is the ‘gem’ of New Zealand!

Manuka Honey

In the forests of New Zealand, bees collect nectar from the Manuka flower which only blooms a few weeks a year. Manuka honey is becoming increasingly revered by natural health consumers around the world. The Māori have used Manuka honey for its therapeutic and medicinal abilities for centuries. It has been shown to have antibacterial and antimicrobial properties. Nature’s most powerful honey is used for immune support, digestive and gut health, antioxidant protection, for soothing coughs/sore throats and for increased energy. When sterilized, it can be used for healing infections and wounds.

Lush Forests & Waterfalls

New Zealand is a land of rivers, mountains and lakes. So, it naturally has forests and many amazing waterfalls. Some are an easy stop on the road and others require a hike. Some can be swum in while others can only be viewed from a distance. Spilling from high mountain lakes or tumbling over rocky river beds, shrouded by damp native forest or cascading over steep cliffs, New Zealand’s waterfalls offer something for everyone. Forests cover 20% of the total land area. Most of that is indigenous forest which is protected and not harvested. The Kauri forests are a green world of huge ancient towering kauri trees and rare birds.

Geothermal Pools & Geysers

Geothermal pools and geysers are spectacular and rare around the world. There are approximately 58 in New Zealand. Their steaming plumes, bubbling waters, craters and colorful mud pools are concentrated in the Rotorua-Taupo region of North Island. These have been shaped and colored by volcanic and geothermal forces for thousands of years. Orange-lined hot springs, neon green lakes, erupting geysers, trees wearing a coat of orange crystals…see them, hold your nose and grab your camera!

Extreme Adventure Sports

If adventure sports and extreme activities are your thing, there is no end to them in New Zealand. Queenstown is known as the ‘Adventure Capital of the World’. Choose from bungy jumping, jet boating, skydiving, zip-lining, off-road driving, white-water rafting, climbing, rappelling, caving, heli-skiing and more. If you can’t do it, you can often watch. Who wants to go home, anyway?

2022 Tour: Quito & The Galapagos Islands

March 6, 2022 By Patty Moss

*Dinner onboard the Galapagos catamaran*

With sea lions lounging in the sand, turtles nesting close to the water and marine iguanas sunning on rocks, saying the Galapagos is very different from other beach destinations is a major understatement. Usually, when you look into traveling to a beach destination, you think of simply lying on the shore while waves crash with a cocktail in hand. Visiting the Galapagos is very different. The cocktail in hand wasn’t different but the entire experience was so much more than just your typical beach vacation.

But I digress…this tour started in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Quito, Ecuador. Quito is isolated in the Andes at an elevation of 9350′. The city is spread along the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano. What first impressed me was how the city and its residential areas are all over the hillsides – everywhere you look. We arrived at night the city was lit up by houses from top to bottom with very steep streets. The lights seemed to glisten in every direction – it was the up and down that was so different.

First impressions can be positive or negative, as we all know. One of my first was the sincere warmth and welcoming of the Ecuadorian people. Of course we were American tourists, but this was the case throughout the entire trip from everyone we met – guides, storekeepers, artisans, waiters, hotel workers, individuals on the street and the staff on the boat. There is genuine politeness from the Ecuadorian people. I felt very comfortable in Ecuador.

The continuous rain in Quito wasn’t so nice but it’s called ‘travel’. We, nevertheless, went up the Quito Teléferico to see views of the Andes. Led by our guide, Paulo, we arrived at the top to see only clouds hovering over the mountain peaks. At 12, 943′, the air was thin but so fresh with all the rain. Some guests hiked up to the swing and just celebrated where they were. No view, just clouds but an invigorating experience, nontheless.

The Teleférico policewomen offered to take a photo of the group.
So we invited them to join the photo instead.

Dinner at Nuema Restaurant in Quito was something everyone raved about! It was 14-artisan courses prepared by an Ecuadorian chef, Alejandro Chamorro, who worked at Noma in Copenhagen & Astrid & Gaston in Lima. True perfection! Our group sat outside under a tent for dinner. The views of Quito at night were outstanding!

We flew to the Galapagos the next day. After a two-hour flight to Baltra Island, we transferred to Catamaran Alya. Our naturalist guide, Juanito, met us at the airport and a fantastic crew welcomed us on board. I was immediately struck by how impeccably this boat is run. Everything is in order, all procedures are in place and it operates without a hitch – emergency procedures, how to board the boat, how to get into the panga with a lending hand on moving seas, organization of wetsuits & and snorkeling equipment kept for each guest, maintaining a clean boat (they cleaned room 3x/day) – everything was performed with great attention to detail! We were in safe and capable hands as managed by the captain. He runs a tight ship and the crew pulls it off seamlessly with graciousness. For four days we had the privilege of being on this beautiful vessel and enjoying the experience of cruising the Eastern Galapagos Islands.

The pirates were the crew who surprised us by one evening by capturing each guest for a dance and to play ‘animals of the Galapagos’ charades. Silly and fun!

I can’t say enough about our certified naturalist guide, Juanito. He was born in the Galapagos and worked as a ranger for the Galapagos National Park. He is a great guy and unbelievably knowledgeable – a true local. What impressed me most was the respect he had for the animals.

Marine Iguana, Sea Lion Pup, Green Sea Turtle, Blue Footed Bobbies, Frigatebird, Giant Galapagos Tortoises

The chef showed us how to make Ceviche using the freshest of fish and fresh lime juice. Don’t let it sit in the lime juice too long or it over-cooks the fish. This was delicioso!

Lastly, a tour is only successful when the guests’ expectations are met or surpassed. It’s safe to say they were happy and enjoyed themselves on this trip!

Maine 2021: A Windjamming & Culinary Adventure

October 25, 2021 By Patty Moss

What would a unique and adventurous summer tour to Maine look like for my guests – many of which had never been to Maine? What could we do that would leave lasting memories and allow new friendships through shared experiences? What about the stunning coastal scenery, the outstanding seafood offerings and the smorgasbord of outdoor activities Maine has to offer? There is also, of course, the important history of Maine, the Portland port and its ships throughout America’s history. My goal was to give everyone a nice combination of experiences and integrate Maine’s stunning scenery, outdoor activities and its unforgettable sea/farm-to-table local cuisine. The sense of getting away, learning, making new friends and having old-fashioned belly laughs is what life is about. In that, I think we succeeded!

Portland 5-Lighthouse Bike Tour
A 25-mile ride (some opted for the van), the Portland breakwater, important lighthouses and historic sites, beautiful scenery of the city, fantastic lobster rolls enjoyed in the park

Luke’s Lobster, Portland
A sustainable lobster industry presentation (given by Luke’s dad, a lobster fisherman), learning how to open and eat a lobster, our tour leader, Cristina’s, big birthday celebration, sorry, ‘Larry the Lobster’, but you were delicious!

Sailing on a 150-year old Maine Schooner
Penobscot Bay scenery, an adventure a minute, helping raise the sails and lift the anchor (no engine or modern equipment on this boat!), a fantastic crew, the sea breeze, a great chef who prepared 3 full meals/day, beautiful sunsets, many laughs, the incomparable Captain Noah – and, a hurricane that missed us!

Captain & Crew’s Onshore Lobster Bake
The best lobster anyone had ever eaten – ever – freshly steamed in seaweed, eating lobster on the beach, cracking open the lobster shells with a rock, more lobsters eaten than anyone cares to admit. So basic and so perfect!

Samoset Resort
Time for a good shower and a really comfy bed, creature comforts for a couple of days.

Garden/Farm Tour & Dinner at Primo Restaurant
A private tour by the garden manager with tips for how he grows their extensive produce for the restaurant, an unforgettable farm-to-table meal; great wine selected by our tour leader, Claude. Owner/Chef Melissa Kelly is a two-time James Beard award winner and you know why once you take the first taste! So fresh, so delicious with subtle flavors from the garden.

Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park
(optional add-on tour)
Ocean Path – incredibly beautiful!

Testimonials

“Thank you for a great trip! We saw and did things that we might not have done had we been on our own.”
M.R., Boulder, CO

“The best trip I have ever taken!”
J.P., Kansas City, KS

“Sailing on a historical schooner.. the cool breeze is blowing my hair and sweeping across my body. Am I dreaming? No, this is real.”
L.P., Sonora, CA

Cruise the Galapagos Islands on Catamaran Alya

September 16, 2021 By Patty Moss

Experience the archipelago onboard the M/C Alya Luxury Catamaran, also known as ‘The Jewel of Galapagos’. Its design represents the beauty and uniqueness of this exotic paradise. Enjoy the unforgettable experience, delightful cuisine and personalized service in a comfortable and exclusive environment. The Alya was built in 2017 and is one of hte the newest boats in the Galapagos. This luxury-class 16 passenger catamaran offers 9 comfortable cabins as well as a number of social gathering areas. The itinerary includes hiking, snorkeling, beach visits, kayaking and paddleboarding. The onboard guide/certified naturalist provides two excursions per day on land or water.

This catamaran design offers smoother cruising in the seas surrounding the Galapagos Islands. Alya’s eight crew members and bilingual naturalist guide assure a safe and informative journey. Sit back and relax on the Alya while taking in these exquisite islands on a 6 day/5 night cruise: North Seymour, South Plaza, Santa Fe, San Cristobal, Española, Floreana, Santa Cruz Highlands. They are chock-full of wildlife.

Included with the catamaran:

Transfers in the Galapagos
Accommodations in a double cabin (king or two beds)
3 meals per day; local and international cuisine
Certified naturalist bilingual guide
Two visits and excursions per day
Use of snorkeling equipment and wetsuits
Kayaks
Stand-up paddleboards

Boat specifications:

Length: 105 ft
Beam: 43 ft
Capacity: 16 passengers
Accommodations: Maine Deck (4 double, 1 single), Upper Deck (4 double); all with balconies except the single room

Testimonials

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Complex and Beautiful Sicily (A Tour of Our Tour)

November 7, 2019 By Patty Moss

This photo is Sicily, at its core. At every turn, the people draw you into their world and their reality. As a tourist, you feel their triumphs and struggles. It is truly a beautiful island, rich with history, tradition, art, architecture, food, wine and a unique culture. This is, perhaps, due to the many civilizations that inhabited the island over history. The scenery is amazing: the bustling city of Palermo with its contemporary designer stores vs. the rolling vineyards and old countryside vs. the Baroque hilltop towns – the old vs. the new in contrast everywhere. It’s a feast for the senses. It IS like Italy and yet, it IS NOT like Italy. It’s complicated, as they say. We experienced Sicily, it’s beauty and complexities, during our tour in October.

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is a bustling city that reflects the rich history of the island and its many civilizations. Staying near the Massimo Opera House, we were centrally located to visit must-see sites with local historian, Jacqueline Alio. Jackie has authored several books on Sicily and its peoples. She was a wealth of knowledge about Sicily’s complex history and culture. With visits to Quattro Canti, The Massimo Opera House, the Norman Palace, the Palatine Chapel and the Fountain of Shame, we saw and learned much of Palermo in one morning of walking with Jackie. It was just the first of many days indulging in Sicilian sites and cuisine!

Cefalù is a lovely beachside town outside Palermo with a lively square, wonderful food, a sandy beach, great shopping and people-watching. Some of our guests enjoyed visiting with the locals, some shopped and others made a beeline for the beach after enjoying a lunch of fresh fish, grilled vegetables and pasta.

We headed to Ballaró Market for a culinary walking tour with our leaders, Claude & Cristina Baud. Ballaró is the oldest market in Palermo dating back 1000+ years. With food purveyors calling out their goods for sale, it’s a lively scene full of local culture. The vegetables, fruit, meats, nuts, olives and cheeses were divine. Have you ever tried three kinds of pistachios? We tasted Sicilian street foods along the way and picked up items for our upcoming picnics.

The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School in central Sicily is a 150-year old farmhouse and cooking school started by the late Anna Tasca Lanza. Anna brought classic Sicilian cooking to the world drawing upon Sicily’s native ingredients. Today, the school is run by her daughter, Fabrizia. Surrounded by vineyards and gardens, It is a true farm-to-table experience. Each dish is created from the meats, vegetables, fruit, herbs and grains available from their land. We prepared four Sicilian dishes with Fabrizia learning traditional techniques with her ingredients. A walk in the culinary garden was a delight!

The Tasca D’Amerita/Regaleali Estate Winery and the cooking school are both owned by the Tasca family. Tasca/Regaleali produces 4 million bottles of wine per year. The white and red wines made from local grapes (Catarrato, Inzolia, Grillo, Perricone, Nero d’Avola) are divine. We enjoyed a winery tour and tasting led by Regaleali’s sommelier who provided an overview of the Sicilian viticulture of the area. In the remote interior of Sicily, this estate and its scenery are truly magnificent! Regaleali is comprised mainly of vineyards but ancient wheat is also harvested and used for the production of bread and pasta, local sheep graze freely and a very intense extra virgin olive oil is produced from their olive trees.

Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Called Akragas, it became one of the richest and most famous of the Greek colonies dating back to 4th century BC. We wandered among the Doric temples with our historical guide, Giovanna Lombardo (she grew up playing in the area as a child). She taught us about how the Greeks built and lived in Agrigento. The Temple of Concordia is the most well-preserved and intact of the seven temples. We also visited the archaeological museum which contains many remnants of everyday life found at the site.

The southeastern region of Sicily, called Val di Noto, has its own history and culture. In 1693, a major earthquake devastated the area. Extensive rebuilding of towns and cities took place and the architecture of the reconstructed buildings became known as the ‘Sicilian Baroque Style’. We visited the UNESCO-protected hilltop towns of Ragusa, Modica and Syracusa with our historical guide, Carlo Montesante, taking in the ornate architecture of this region. A stop at Cafe Siciliia, the pastry shop of Chef Corrado Assenza featured in ‘Netflix’s Chef’s Table Pastry’, treated us with the best almond granita ever made earth (one person’s opinion)!! More than yum!

Vendicari Nature Reserve is in the southeastern corner of Sicily. Our off-the-beathen-path excursion for the day was to take a walk with a naturalist to learn about the area and the protected African migratory birds. We observed flamingos, cormorants and pelicans in their natural habitat. The water is crystal clear and the lack of people was a delight! Close to this area, is the old fishing port of Marzamemi. Picturesque and filled with quaint shops, restaurants and fishing boats, it is a place not to be missed if you are ever in Sicily! The afternoon called for a shopping spree in which we willingly participated but caught a great end of season sale. This all made for a perfect afternoon!

Set on the eastern coast of Sicily, Mt. Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanos. Referred to as ‘she’ – she sends off steam constantly. The steam can be white, black (ash) or pink (with minerals). The locals worry when she is not steaming. It means something ‘big’ could happen. As was explained to us, residents are actually more concerned about the earthquakes in the area than the volcano due their location on tectonic plates. We took a fall hike through a chestnut forest at the base of Mt. Etna passing lava flows. This area is also a wine-growing region. Our guide led us to her family’s estate, Gambino Winery, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch of local specialties paired with wine. Who can ever forget that pumpkin risotto??

Spending a day on a catamaran off the coast of Taromina was a delight! It was finally a chance to sit, relax and do nothing. Our charter took us to a swimming spot where some of us immediately jumped in while one tried a fishing pole. The water was not really cold but refreshing. Follow that with lunch prepared on board by the captain and his crew: marinated swordfish, pasta with mussels, grilled vegetables, eggplant parmesan, salad and wine – makes for happy guests. The captain raised the sails and we were able to sail past Isola Bella, a rocky island off of the coast of Taormina. All this was accomplished before huge rain clouds appeared. We made it through the entire trip without rain – except for the last day. We were very fortunate as Mother Nature descended on us in a great way the next day!

This was our lovely hotel in Taormina. The main historical part of the city is on an upper level accessed by a cable car or taxi from our hotel. We enjoyed the peace and quiet of being on the water. Taormina is a resort town and quite busy with tourists. In front of the hotel is a beautiful small island creating a protected beachfront complete with small fishing boats going in and out during the day. The water is crystal clear and the sound of the tide was magical at night. What better than to sit back, have a drink (or two) and enjoy this beautiful view at the end of a 12-day tour??

EXOTIC MOROCCO: Our Spring 2019 Tour

August 29, 2019 By Patty Moss

I can’t get Morocco out of my mind. At every turn, it draws you in and holds you there. Maybe it’s the elaborate mosaic patterns everywhere. Maybe it’s the intricate doors that are works of art in themselves. They are scattered along plain, sometimes crumbling walls, but then open into beautiful homes and riads/guesthouses you would never thought imaginable. It’s a land of contrasts and mixed emotions. Most importantly, it’s the people who extend a warm welcome and with their gracious hospitality. I found myself immediately feeling their inner peace – even from those in extreme poverty. I am one of those forever hooked on this exotic country.

Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do constantly as we are traveling. I always say at tour orientation, “I’m responsible for the logistics and organization of this tour and the guides are responsible for the subject matter”. They know the country and can best deliver the information. So, it’s natural that my head is constantly swirling with thoughts like ….Is the group coming together as a team of travelers? Are the guides teaching the guests about the culture and history that surrounds a site or region? How is the pace of the itinerary? Do we need more free time to relax or go out on our own? Are guests experiencing and learning about the food of the country which is so integral to its culture? Are we delivering a quality experience? On and on…. It’s particularly true with this trip to Morocco because, well, it’s Morocco!

We arrived to Tangier in northern Morocco. After a walking tour of the medina (ancient walled city), we visited Cap Spartel at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet. The lighthouse is on a promontory and marks the end of the cape, just 9 miles from Spain. The views of the coastline and sea were stunning. Below Cap Spartel are the Caves of Hercules which is an archeological site. We had a Berber man who grew up playing in the caves as a child, guide us and tell us his stories. There are two openings to the caves: one to the land and one to the sea. The opening to the sea is called the “Map of Africa” because it’s shape looks like Africa.

We headed to Chefchaouen, called the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco‘. The city is nestled against the Rif Mountains that run along the northern coast of Morocco The buildings are painted shades of blue, some with intricate tiled designs, down cobbled streets and winding alleyways. This city is fascinating due to its unique charm, warm Berber people, its history and being surrounded by so much blue!

We hiked in Talessemtane National Park in the Rif Mountains one day with guides. The setting was beautiful along a river that was a clear turquoise-jade color. The color is due the run-off from the limestone in the area. We had two guests who were plant experts on the trip and helped make this hike a naturalist outing identifying trees, plants and herbs along the way. Then, we found a river-side cafe that happened to have tangines cooking right next to the path. Convenience for hikers who get hungry!

Onward to Volubilis, and the ruins of a Roman city dating back to the 3rd century BC. The map shows the extensiveness of the Roman Empire at its height. This Roman city housed 25,000 people and became one the most important municipia (free towns) in its day. Set in an agricultural area, we toured the city – its wide main street for chariots, the remains of its houses with their intact mosaic floors and the beautiful Basilica still so well preserved. The local historical guide explained what life was like for the Romans who lived in Volubilis. So fascinating!

This is Bab Mansour, the main gate and entrance to the Imperial City of Meknes. There are four Imperial Cities in Morocco: Fes, Marrakech, Rabat and Meknes. The Imperial cities were once capitals of Morocco. The current holder is Rabat. We walked the ancient Meknes medina and main square full of stalls, food vendors, street performers and traffic! As our guides said, when you cross the street, you say to yourself, “Praise God!” and go for it. Actually, they stopped traffic and guided us across the street on several occasions. We visited the main square with its many food stalls, street performers and A LOT of action. It was a precursor to visiting Fes and Marrakech but on a smaller scale. Claude led us to Aisha’s, a very, very small restaurant (as in one table with the kitchen in the back). We enjoyed Aisha’s specially prepared Moroccan lunch. She also explained how to make preserved lemons that were featured in her tangines. This was the first course of Harissa Soup. The food is sublime in Morocco with its unique spices combined with fresh vegetables, meats, olives, dried fruits, almonds served with a side of couscous and Berber bread (oh, the bread!). Nothing fancy, but authentic and probably one of the top two meals we had in Morocco. Thank you, Aisha!

I usually don’t write much about our accommodations but our stay at Palais Faraj in Fes was so memorable. The exterior was beautiful and the interior even more so. Every room was a work of Moroccan interior design at its finest. Quite a wonderful hotel if you are ever in Fes!

1The ancient medina of Fes is a labyrinth of 9000+ streets and alleyways – some so narrow they are just wide enough for you alone. Inside are the souks or marketplaces for any tourist to get lost and then be persuaded in to buying a Berber rug or a zillion other things. It’s a shopping mecca. Fortunately, we followed our guides through the medina and didn’t get lost although some would say that’s half the fun! One day in Fes was spent on a walking tour with a local certified history guide to learn about many of its historical sites. The emphasis of the tour was also on Arabic architecture and its intricacies. It is hard to imagine the many mosaic walls, carvings and ornate metal doors were all made by hand usually for a sultan. The palaces, mosques and religious schools are truly remarkable and the architecture is a sight to behold.

The tanneries of Fes are a must-see (and smell). Tanning of leather is a craft with traditions that go back thousands of years. And, they still do it the same way today! The tanning process turns animal hides into soft, rot-proof leather of every color. The odor comes from pigeon poop and other ‘organic matter’ that seals in the color. “Where do they get that much pigeon poop?”, one might ask. They buy it in the market, of course. To offset the odor, just hold a sprig of mint up to your nose. It works! Once tanned, the hides are passed on to the leatherworkers to make many kinds of leather products. Of course, this called for buying matching Moroccan shoes/slippers called “babouches”.

Lachen’s Fes Cooking class was so much fun! After a visit to the marketplace to buy ingredients, the work began. It was a fast-paced cooking class with a lot of teamwork and camaraderie. Chef Lachen taught us to make Zaalouk Salad; Briouates with Goat Cheese & Olives in Puff Pastry; Candied Artichokes with Preserved Lemons & Oranges; Lamb, Prune & Date Tangine, Charmoula (a traditional Moroccan marinade for fish or chicken kebabs) and Pastilla (chicken stuffed in filo dough sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar) . After all that, just sweet Moroccan oranges for dessert sprinkled with cinnamon. More than yum!

This is Dar Ayniwen our beautiful home-away-from-home in the Palmeraie district of Marrakech. Set outside the medina, it is a paradise behind its huge walls and gated entrance. What a delight! We were immediately entranced by the beautiful eclectic rooms, exotic grounds, impeccable hospitality, delicious food and an African bird sanctuary. It was a respite from the busy-ness of Marrakech. From here, guests had free time to visit Majorelle Gardens, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, the Berber Museum and the Marrakech medina on their own. Museums and shopping – a great combination! Plus coming home to this wasn’t so bad…

Jemaa el Fna is the main square of Marrakech. It’s busy all day but really comes alive at night with food stalls, snake charmers, henna artists, musicians, dancers and animal acts. The group went on a culinary walking tour with our guide, Claude, to take in the culture and the authentic local cuisine of the food stalls. Claude wanted everyone to experience Jemaa el Fna like a local as this is the most famous square in Morocco. One of the best ways is also to sit just in a cafe, have a cup of coffee and people-watch. It is truly a sight to behold!

On to the Ourika Valley in the High Atlas Mountains and some downtime…on the way, was a special visit to Paradis du Saffron where a Swiss woman, Christine, recreated her life in Morocco by opening a saffron farm & garden for visitors. The saffron flowers are ready in November when the women harvest the pistils from the flowers. In order for it to be real saffron, look for tiny trumpets at the end of the pistil and a deep red color. Christine has gorgeous gardens with fruit trees, flowering plants, herbs, a bird sanctuary and sweet donkeys who loved our attention. We walked the Barefoot Trail experiencing varied textures on our bare feet. Then, a series of foot baths or pots filled with scented water of thyme, rosemary, rose petals, salt scrub ending with scented argan oil. Happiness is…!

Musing of A Tour Designer: Our 2018 Greece Tour

February 1, 2019 By Patty Moss

Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do a lot in the moment and after I return home. I try to design my tours in the same way I would put together a family trip – with memorable experiences. Our tour to mainland Greece and the Greek islands of Mykonos and Santorini was truly unforgettable. First, the wonderful group! We were a group of 11 women and one man. These were individuals who bonded quickly, gave of themselves when needed, cared for each other and generally embraced the concept of group travel. We had guests from California, Ohio, South Carolina, New Jersey and Colorado. We had two sets of sisters and two repeat clients. Most started off not knowing each other but made friends quickly and have now gone home with 10+ (new) good friends As I often say, this is more like a group of friends traveling together than the standard ‘canned’ tour. Seeing people learn through immersive cultural experiences and sharing in that joy with newly-made friends is the greatest reward I could ask for. Thank you to everyone who joined us on another adventure ~ one we will not forget!

We arrived to Athens in a Medicane – a Mediterranean hurricane. The rain and wind was an unusual weather pattern they were experiencing in Greece and we ‘enjoyed’ it for all three days we were there! Nevertheless, we persisted. We visited the Acropolis with a certified Greek guide who was an expert in archaeology and Greek history. The winds were 45mph and the rain did not stop. What better way to visit the Acropolis!? Our guide was a delight and extremely knowledgeable about the Acropolis, its temples and the artifacts in the Acropolis Museum. We learned so much and it was a day we will all remember!

We headed north from Athens to Delphi. Delphi is one of the most important historic sites in Greece. The ancient Greeks considered Delphi to be the ‘center of the world’. They went to Delphi to consult Pythia, the Oracle, who gave advice on everything from when to plant crops to whether to go to war. She sat in Apollo’s Temple, the ruins you see here. Visitors would line up to see her. This site and museum are well worth a visit. Out guide unraveled the mysteries and history surrounding this important Greek site.

Onward to Kalambaka and the Meteora monasteries in mainland Greece. This area is magical with monasteries built on top of and amongst great rock outcroppings. Beginning in the 14th century, nomadic Greek Orthodox monks built monasteries as a way to create isolation, peace and protection. The monks built them using only ropes, pulleys and baskets and would raise access when they needed to escape invaders. They still use cable cars today (replacing the old baskets) to move people and goods between the monasteries. We had a wonderful hiking guide who entertained and informed us the whole way!

We flew from Athens to Mykonos, a short 35-minute flight. That evening was spent in Chora/Mykonos Town doing some much-anticipated island shopping, eating and imbibing of Greek wines. We visited the Kato Windmill overlooking Little Venice where we dined on the waterfront. It was so lovely to sit and watch the sunset with new friends, enjoy freshly caught fish and take in the magic of this Greek island.

OPA! It was a lively Greek Night on Mykonos! Our guests had a great time watching the show and participating in traditional Greek dancing!

A day spent sailing on a private catamaran is good for the head and the heart! We sailed to two protected coves off Mykonos, swam and enjoy a magnficient lunch on board!

Santorini is simply breathtaking! The white cubiform buildings lining the cliff of the volcano, the views across the caldera, the sparkling sea and the flowers in bloom everywhere are something photos do not adequately convey. Oia, on the tip of the island, is a shoppers’ paradise filled with boutiques and trendy restaurants. Guests loved having some free time to discover the island on their own. This is the sunset one night looking across the caldera from my room – now forever etched in my memory!

Santorini wines are some of the best Greek wines. Grapes grow in the volcanic soil and absorb the warm sunshine producing wonderful wines. Guests spent the day with a sommelier touring a vineyard, tasting and learning about Santorini viticulture. They then participated in a hands-on cooking class making traditional Santorinian fare: fava dip, tomato fritters, Cretan salad and pork cooked with wild herbs in a local wine reduction sauce. Yum! It was a perfect last day to an incredible 12-day adventure in Greece!

Musings From Our 2018 Tour

June 20, 2018 By Patty Moss

Our Basque, Pyrenees & Rioja Tour

Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do a lot in the moment and after I return home. Our tour to the Basque Country of Spain & France and the Rioja winemaking region of Spain will be on my mind for months to come. We had a wonderful group of women from California, North Carolina and Colorado. As I often say, this is more like a group of friends traveling together than the standard ‘canned’ tour. Some were friends who had signed up together. All became friends through this kind of travel and its shared experiences. Seeing people learn through immersive cultural experiences and sharing in that joy with newly-made friends is the greatest reward I could ask for! Thank you to everyone who joined us on this adventure ~

The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is not only an amazing work of architecture but hosts a wonderful collection of modern art. We learned about this Frank Gehry masterpiece and its exterior sculptures including ‘Puppy’ and “Mamam’. We enjoyed the permanent exhibits as well as the current exhibit on view: Chagall – The Breakthrough Years, 1911-1917.

This is our group at the first night’s Welcome Dinner in Bilbao. Ad Hoc Cascanueces is a well-regarded restaurant in Bilbao. We were treated to a presentation by its owner/chef who prefers to ‘guide’ guests to a more personalized experience. Explaining his take on Basque cuisine, he features the local ingredients ‘of the day’. The meal was outstanding and the creative presentation of the dishes was truly memorable!

No visit to San Sebastian is complete without a lively ‘Pintxo Hunt’. Pintxos are the Basque version of tapas. The pintxo bars are filled with locals conversing, cozying up to the bar, eating, drinking and just being social. The idea is to never stop moving from one pintxo bar to the next, taking a drink and eating the specialties of the house. We ended at La Viña, well known for their creamy cheesecake enjoyed a with a glass of sherry. If the bar is too full, you just move it outside!

Cooking at Mimo San Sebastian was a favorite for everyone. Executive Chef Patricio presented an outstanding experience. We learned how to cook the Basque way – with painstaking attention to detail and presentation. It was such a lovely evening with exceptional food paired with outstanding wines. Many thanks to Patricio for sharing his expertise, patience and hospitality!

We visited two French Basque seaside towns: San-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz.The time spent walking along the ocean promenade was a nice change of pace. Of course, a little shopping and a marketplace visit were also necessary! Our guides bought local specialties for our picnic the next day in the Pyrenees!

Off to the French Basque Pyrenees…what do you get when you combine a remote French country inn, incredibly beautiful scenery, sheets of rain, a wet hike and an onsite Porche museum? The answer: an adventure! First the rain: it never stopped for very long but also made everything so green! It wasn’t a bad thing, just a challenge. We tried to hike but headed back early because the sky was ready to ‘open up’ again. And, it did! What better way to entertain ourselves than with a handy onsite Porsche museum full of exquisite cars? (The owner houses his own plus others.) Due to the rain, we improvised by holding the picnic in one of our suites complete with a roaring fire, wine and gourmet food. Everyone loved this beautiful inn and our short, but wet stay. An added bonus – we all had golf carts to get around the property!

Welcome to La Rioja – some call it Spain’s Tuscany. La Rioja has beautiful rolling hills, medieval hamlets and exquisite wines! The Vivanco Winery & Museum of Wine Culture was a great introduction to the history of winemaking in the region showcasing wine-related equipment, artifacts, artwork and the Vivanco Winery facilities. The museum is dedicated to the history of winemaking and man’s relationship with it over 5,000 years. We enjoyed a beautiful Rioja luncheon in their restaurant featuring traditional Riojan cuisine while overlooking their vineyards. We toured the winery from vineyard to cellar to production facilities. It was a great start to the next few day of our Rioja wine tour. Heaven!

Our day of touring architectural wineries/bodegas started at Bodega Ysios designed by architect Santiago Calatrava. Constructed of wood, titanium and glass, it is visually spectacular set against the Cantabrian Mountains. Wonderful wine tasting with a view!

Bodega El Fabulista is an old family winery set under the medieval town of Laguardia. The system of underground tunnels once used for protection from invaders are now utilized for wine production and storage. The caves provide the perfect humidity and temperature. We toured the caves with the winemaker, learned how to taste wine and sampled. She invited us to come back to stomp grapes during harvest this fall! Anyone interested?

Bodega Marques de Riscal Hotel which is part of the winery complex is simply breathtaking when you lay eyes on it! Designed by Frank Gehry of Guggenheim Museum fame, it is constructed of gold, silver and pink titanium with wood, stone and glass. The wines are amazing, as well! I am including photos of these wines because we can get them in the U.S. Do yourself a favor – they are divine.

We ended our tour at the lovely Bodega Vieja in Rioja. Known for their roasted sucking pig cooked for hours, the tradition is to cut it vertically with a plate – it’s that tender. We didn’t do this but we certainly enjoyed our Farewell Luncheon on the last day. ‘Salud’ to a great group and trip well-enjoyed!

Greece On Your Plate

April 9, 2018 By Patty Moss

Greek cooking is fun for many reasons. The fact that some recipes have existed for thousands of years always creates excitement among those who are preparing Greek food. Greeks approach food with a combination of seriousness and nostalgia, thinking back to the dishes they grew up on. They don’t eat to live but rather live to eat. A meal is always a social and lively occasion which reflects on the true meaning of companionship and family. Cooking seems to be a way of ‘speaking to someone’s heart’.

A Greek Tradition

Greek cuisine has five key secrets: good quality, fresh ingredients, distinctive flavoring using herbs and spices, Greek olive oil and simplicity. The traditional Greek diet is (of course) very Mediterranean: fish, meat, vegetables, herbs and grains.

Greek Seafood

Being a maritime nation, the Greeks incorporate plenty of seafood into their diet. Fish and seafood is a staple in Greek cuisine. Enter the local catch of fish, mussels, clams, shrimp, lobster, squid, sea bass, anchovies, crab, cod, cuttlefish, sardines, octopus, sea urchin and more! Just a little lemon, olive oil, salt and pepper and you have heaven on a plate! Simple and fresh.
Greece is also a major consumer of meats such as lamb, beef, pork and chicken. Traditional vegetarian dishes are widely available in Greece. Greek vegetarian dishes are made with tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini, peppers, onions, potatoes, green beans and wild greens (horta), to name just a few. Beans and legumes are often added. After dinner, Greeks often treat customers to seasonal fruits such as karpoozi (watermelon), peponi (honeydew) and apples, pears, cherries or oranges. Figs, which are ripe from mid-August to September, have to be tasted to be believed!

Classic Greek Dishes

Moussaka: a rich oven baked dish of eggplant, minced meat, tomato and Béchamel sauce – it’s Greek comfort food

Soulvaki: marinated meat such as chicken, pork or lamb cooked on a skewer; can be eaten straight off the stick or wrapped in pita bread; often served with tzatziki sauce

Spanakopita: Greek spinach pie that has a rich phyllo crust filled with spinach, onions, cheese and herbs

Fasolada: a white bean soup sometimes called ‘the national food of the Greeks’; made of beans, tomatoes, carrot and generous amount of celery; sometimes served with a variety of salty side dishes such as olives or anchovies

Horiatiki

Horiatiki: a traditional Greek salad made of tomatoes, cucumber, green pepper, onions, olives, feta cheese and herbs

Paidakia: Greek lamb chops marinated in olive oil, thyme, oregano, rosemary, garlic, lemon zest, mustard and peppercorns; usually served with roasted potatoes

Tzatziki: made from Greek yogurt, olive oil, garlic, chopped cucumbers and dill or mint

Galaktoboureko: a traditional Greek dessert made from a crispy phyllo pastry crust, filled with creamy custard, sprinkled with melted butter and bathed in scented syrup

Loukoumades: Greek honey dumplings; pastries made of deep fried dough soaked in syrup, chocolate sauce or honey and often sprinkled with sesame seeds or chopped walnuts

Greek Cultural & Culinary Terms

mezes – a collection of small dishes usually served with various dips, spreads and accompaniments
arni – lamb
brizola – chops (beef, pork or lamb)
psari – fish
fourno – oven
kotopoulo – chicken
retsina – a white wine infused with pine flavoring
ouzo – an anise-flavored apertif
meli – honey
octopodi – octopus, traditionally served grilled
lathera – dishes cooked in oil; often vegetarian
taverna – a small restaurant serving traditional cuisine
kafenio – a cafe where people often socialize and play card games
metaxa – a spirit that is a blend of brandy, spices and wine
kali orexi – Bon Appétit!