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Musings of a Tour Director: New Zealand 2022

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After two years of closed borders and having to postpone this tour twice, I was thrilled this trip finally became a reality! Along with some of the world’s most stunning vistas, meeting a Māori tribe and experiencing outstanding food & wine, New Zealand is truly everything you expect. It is a country that draws you in and captivates. We covered almost 2000 miles in 19 days going from the North to South Island. These are landscapes and experiences that cannot be truly captured in photos – but I will try to give you some of the highlights…

 

 

Auckland

 

America’s Cup Sailing Experience

We had the unique opportunity to participate as crew (or sit back and relax) on an America’s Cup yacht. Guests were able to take the helm or exert energy on the grinders at the direction of professional crew in Auckland’s Waitematā Harbor. I’ve sailed quite a bit but I really want to emphasize how fast these boats are. Wow! The entire experience was exhilarating!

 

 

Welcome Dinner at The Sugar Club

Dinner at The Sugar Club in Sky Tower 53 floors above Auckland was a chic and elegant experience with stunning views of the harbor. We even had a fireworks display that evening! The lemon dessert will live on in my memory. That looks like a lemon but is really creamy lemon mousse goodness in a lemon shape coated in crispy white chocolate – served with pistachio ice cream…in my view, one of the best dishes on the entire trip. I wish I had the recipe…

 

Wine Tasting on Waiheke Island
Casita Miró Vineyards

The minute you step off the ferry from Auckland to Waiheke Island, you sense that this is a special (and privileged) place. It’s about the ocean, the setting of vineyards, the homes, gardens, quaint towns and, of course, the wine. Casita Miró was our first introduction to Waiheke wines. This is a winery showcasing authentic Spanish cuisine in Gaudi-Dali-Miró-inspired architectural gardens. The entire setting, the tasting experience and the wines were a delight.


 

 

Wine Tasting on Waiheke Island
Mudbrick Vineyard

Mudbrick Vineyard is known as one of the best places to dine and enjoy fine wine in and around Auckland. It must be so because Dua Lipa had reserved one of their restaurants the same day for her family (we didn’t see her). This is an absolutely stunning venue offering gold-medal wines. The vineyards, grounds, restaurant and chef’s garden look out toward Huruhi Bay providing beautiful ocean views back toward Auckland. Do not miss this if ever in New Zealand!

 

 

A LOT of Driving

We clocked many miles on this trip. Around every curve was more beautiful scenery. Most of both islands is lush green. If you want to visit New Zealand and drive yourself, the effort is well worth it.

 

 

Māori Cultural Exchange
Rotorua, North Island

This family-owned experience gave beautiful insight into traditional Maori culture, history and traditions. We were warmly welcomed as extended family from the moment we stepped onto their meeting grounds (marae). Through songs and storytelling from the elders, we learned about this fascinating culture. After a welcome ceremony at the marae, we took a 4WD excursion to a tribal meeting place in the hills overlooking Lake Rotoiti. This woman’s tattooed wedding ring tells a story about her spouse and each of her children as does every tattoo in this tribe. Family and ancestors are everything in the Māori culture along with respect and being stewards of the land.

 

 

Te Puia Thermal Wonderland & the Māori Arts & Crafts Institute
Rotorua (North Island)

Te Puia is a Māori park and cultural center in the Te Whakarewarewa Thermal Valley. It is a wonderland of shooting geysers, steaming vents, bubbling mud pools and is also home to the Māori Arts & Crafts Institute. The institute teaches traditional greenstone (New Zealand jade) carving, bone carving, woodcarving and weaving. Rescued kiwi birds are given a home here. We enjoyed a hangi dinner with meat cooked over steam vents as well a haka. This is a group ceremonial war dance that showcases a tribe’s pride, strength and unity. Actions in the haka include stomping of the feet and rhythmic body slapping, bulging eyes and protruded tongues set to a chant – all meant to fend off invaders. Imagine meeting up to 500 of these fierce warriors at one time…who wouldn’t want to retreat?

 

 

Wellington
North Island

A day in Wellington (on the southern tip of the North Island) must include a visit to Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum. This is an interactive museum..it is visual, contemporary and bicultural. Te Papa Tongarewa literally transaltes to ‘container of treasures’. You can’t see it in one day or even one week – don’t miss this either if ever in New Zealand.

 

 

Ferry Crossing through Marlborough Sounds
North to South Island (Wellington to Picton)

The 3-1/2 hour Interislander Cook Strait ferry is worth taking the time vs. flying between islands. The scenery through Marlborough Sounds as you enter the South Island is absolutely breathtaking – even on a cloudy day.

 

Marlborough Wine Region
South Island

New Zealand is probably best known for its Marlborough wine region on the South Island which has put New Zealand white wines on the world stage. We tasted sauvignon blanc and chardonnay and enjoyed a delicious lunch of local fresh fish at Rock Ferry Vineyard. We also tasted at Fromm Winery. There was a reserved wine festival going on the day we were there preventing us from visiting other more well-known wineries, but these experiences were nevertheless enjoyable. This wine region is beautiful, to be sure.

 

 

Abel Tasman National Park
South Island

Abel Tasman National Park on the north coast of the South Island is some kind of piece of heaven….gorgeous gold sand beaches set against native bush. We took a cruise, a hike and enjoyed a bit of kayaking along the coast.

 

 

Pancake Rocks & Blowholes (Punakaki)
South Island

Traveling southward along Coast Road (west coast of the South Island) led us to the spectacular Pancake Rocks & Blowholes. Set along the Tasman Sea, these are heavily eroded limestone formations made with fragments of dead marine creatures and plants that landed on the seabed below the surface 30 million years ago. The immense water pressure over time caused the fragments to solidify into hard layers that gradually rose above sea level. They are striking to see along with the mesmerizing blowholes that spray mist among the rocks.

 

 

Franz Josef Glacier
South Island

Franz Josef Glacier is one of only two glaciers in the world surrounded by rainforest. Sady, the glacier is retreating at a fast rate. Some guests hiked as far as they could go and viewed the glacier from a distance. Those that took a helicopter ride to the glacier were treated to amazing views and an exhilarating experience. Love those smiles!

 

 

Milford Sound
Fiordland National Park
South Island

Milford Sound is simply to be experienced. Photos and video cannot do it justice. It rains 90% of the time in Milford Sound. We happened to capture it on a cloudy day without rain – in my view, making the scenery even more dramatic. The cruise took us to inlets where we saw penguins, dolphins and seals on the shore. The cheeky Kea (New Zealand’s alpine parrot) landed on our coach when we made a stop en route to Milford Sound. This area is remote and rugged. I had to pick my jaw up as we cruised through the fiords. It is amazing and an absolute must-see on any trip to New Zealand.


 

 

Lunch at a Locals Hangout
Hard Antler’s Bar

Any good trip has to have local color. This was it. Our guide made a stop at Hard Antler’s Restaurant for good old New Zealand fish ‘n chips, burgers, fish chowder, craft beer and darts.

 

 

 

Queenstown
South Island

Our tour ended in Queenstown – the ‘adventure capital of New Zealand’. This is a beautiful city on Lake Wakatipu set against the Remarkables Range. Bungy jumping, skydiving, paragliding and much more is offered everywhere (note the paraglider in the gondola photo). Flame Bar & Grill is the local’s place-to-be seen in Queenstown. Everyone enjoyed their free time in Queenstown and we did. Two guests opted to flyfish: Mike caught an 8-pound trout and Mary’s trout broke her rod – this, on the same day they flew home. It’s all here – whatever you choose to do.

The last photo is from our Farewell 8-course ‘ Trust the Chef’ Degustation Luncheon at Amisfield Winery. Every dish was also an art installation. This course dubbed the ‘garden wall’ was set on the side of a bowl. The chef a this winery is inspired by nature and memories of his childhood. Made of an underlayer of local goat cheese covered in ground parsley, asparagus bites made to look like logs, perfectly-placed edible flowers and herbed ice, it was ‘the dish’ to end a remarkable journey.

Final Thought…Go to New Zealand – everyone should experience this country at least once in their lifetime!

2022 Tour: Quito & The Galapagos Islands

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Dinner onboard the Galapagos catamaran

With sea lions lounging in the sand, turtles nesting close to the water and marine iguanas sunning on rocks, saying the Galapagos is very different from other beach destinations is a major understatement. Usually, when you look into traveling to a beach destination, you think of simply lying on the shore while waves crash with a cocktail in hand. Visiting the Galapagos is very different. The cocktail in hand wasn’t different but the entire experience was so much more than just your typical beach vacation.

But I digress…this tour started in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Quito, Ecuador. Quito is isolated in the Andes at an elevation of 9350′. The city is spread along the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano. What first impressed me was how the city and its residential areas are all over the hillsides – everywhere you look. We arrived at night the city was lit up by houses from top to bottom with very steep streets. The lights seemed to glisten in every direction – it was the up and down that was so different.

First impressions can be positive or negative, as we all know. One of my first was the sincere warmth and welcoming of the Ecuadorian people. Of course we were American tourists, but this was the case throughout the entire trip from everyone we met – guides, storekeepers, artisans, waiters, hotel workers, individuals on the street and the staff on the boat. There is genuine politeness from the Ecuadorian people. I felt very comfortable in Ecuador.

The continuous rain in Quito wasn’t so nice but it’s called ‘travel’.  We, nevertheless, went up the Quito Teléferico to see views of the Andes. Led by our guide, Paulo, we arrived at the top to see only clouds hovering over the mountain peaks. At 12, 943′, the air was thin but so fresh with all the rain. Some guests hiked up to the swing and just celebrated where they were. No view, just clouds but an invigorating experience, nontheless.

The Teleférico policewomen offered to take a photo of the group.
So we invited them to join the photo instead.

Dinner at Nuema Restaurant in Quito was something everyone raved about! It was 14-artisan courses prepared by an Ecuadorian chef, Alejandro Chamorro, who worked at Noma in Copenhagen & Astrid & Gaston in Lima. True perfection!  Our group sat outside under a tent for dinner. The views of Quito at night were outstanding!

We flew to the Galapagos the next day.  After a two-hour flight to Baltra Island, we transferred to Catamaran Alya. Our naturalist guide, Juanito, met us at the airport and a fantastic crew welcomed us on board. I was immediately struck by how impeccably this boat is run. Everything is in order, all procedures are in place and it operates without a hitch – emergency procedures, how to board the boat, how to get into the panga with a lending hand on moving seas, organization of wetsuits & and snorkeling equipment kept for each guest, maintaining a clean boat (they cleaned room 3x/day) – everything was performed with great attention to detail! We were in safe and capable hands as managed by the captain. He runs a tight ship and the crew pulls it off seamlessly with graciousness. For four days we had the privilege of being on this beautiful vessel and enjoying the experience of cruising the Eastern Galapagos Islands. 

The pirates were the crew who surprised us by one evening by capturing each guest for a dance and to play ‘animals of the Galapagos’ charades. Silly and fun!

I can’t say enough about our certified naturalist guide, Juanito. He was born in the Galapagos and worked as a ranger for the Galapagos National Park. He is a great guy and unbelievably knowledgeable – a true local. What impressed me most was the respect he had for the animals.

Marine Iguana, Sea Lion Pup, Green Sea Turtle, Blue Footed Bobbies, Frigatebird, Giant Galapagos Tortoises

The chef showed us how to make Ceviche using the freshest of fish and fresh lime juice. Don’t let it sit in the lime juice too long or it over-cooks the fish. This was delicioso!

Lastly, a tour is only successful when the guests’ expectations are met or surpassed. It’s safe to say they were happy and enjoyed themselves on this trip! 

Maine 2021: A Windjamming & Culinary Adventure

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What would a unique and adventurous summer tour to Maine look like for my guests – many of which had never been to Maine?  What could we do that would leave lasting memories and allow new friendships through shared experiences?  What about the stunning coastal scenery, the outstanding seafood offerings and the smorgasbord of outdoor activities Maine has to offer? There is also, of course, the important history of Maine, the Portland port and its ships throughout America’s history. My goal was to give everyone a nice combination of experiences and integrate Maine’s stunning scenery, outdoor activities and its unforgettable sea/farm-to-table local cuisine. The sense of getting away, learning, making new friends and having old-fashioned belly laughs is what life is about.  In that, I think we succeeded!

Portland 5-Lighthouse Bike Tour
A 25-mile ride (some opted for the van), the Portland breakwater, important lighthouses and historic sites, beautiful scenery of the city, fantastic lobster rolls enjoyed in the park

Luke’s Lobster, Portland
A sustainable lobster industry presentation (given by Luke’s dad, a lobster fisherman), learning how to open and eat a lobster, our tour leader, Cristina’s, big birthday celebration, sorry, ‘Larry the Lobster’, but you were delicious!

Sailing on a 150-year old Maine Schooner
Penobscot Bay scenery, an adventure a minute, helping raise the sails and lift the anchor (no engine or modern equipment on this boat!), a fantastic crew, the sea breeze, a great chef who prepared 3 full meals/day, beautiful sunsets, many laughs, the incomparable Captain Noah – and, a hurricane that missed us!

Captain & Crew’s Onshore Lobster Bake
The best lobster anyone had ever eaten – ever –  freshly steamed in seaweed, eating lobster on the beach, cracking open the lobster shells with a rock, more lobsters eaten than anyone cares to admit. So basic and so perfect!

Samoset Resort
Time for a good shower and a really comfy bed, creature comforts for a couple of days.

Garden/Farm Tour & Dinner at Primo Restaurant
A private tour by the garden manager with tips for how he grows their extensive produce for the restaurant, an unforgettable farm-to-table meal; great wine selected by our tour leader, Claude. Owner/Chef Melissa Kelly is a two-time James Beard award winner and you know why once you take the first taste!  So fresh, so delicious with subtle flavors from the garden.

Bar Harbor & Acadia National Park 
(optional add-on tour)
Ocean Path – incredibly beautiful! 

Testimonials

“Thank you for a great trip! We saw and did things that we might not have done had we been on our own.”

M.R., Boulder, CO

“The best trip I have ever taken!” 

J.P., Kansas City, KS

“Sailing on a historical schooner.. the cool breeze is blowing my hair and sweeping across my body. Am I dreaming? No, this is real.”

L.P., Sonora, CA