Musings from a Tour Designer

Complex & Beautiful Sicily (a tour of our tour)

THIS PHOTO IS SICILY, at its core. At every turn, the people draw you into their world and their reality. As a tourist, you feel their triumphs and struggles. It is truly a beautiful island, rich with history, tradition, art, architecture, food, wine and a unique culture. This is, perhaps, due to the many civilizations that inhabited the island over history. The scenery is amazing: the bustling city of Palermo with its contemporary designer stores vs. the rolling vineyards and old countryside vs. the Baroque hilltop towns – the old vs. the new in contrast everywhere. It’s a feast for the senses. It IS like Italy and yet, it IS NOT like Italy. It’s complicated, as they say. We experienced Sicily, it’s beauty and complexities, during our tour in October.

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, is a bustling city that reflects the rich history of the island and its many civilizations. Staying near the Massimo Opera House, we were centrally located to visit must-see sites with local historian, Jacqueline Alio. Jackie has authored several books on Sicily and its peoples. She was a wealth of knowledge about Sicily’s complex history and culture. With visits to Quattro Canti, The Massimo Opera House, the Norman Palace, the Palatine Chapel and the Fountain of Shame, we saw and learned much of Palermo in one morning of walking with Jackie. It was just the first of many days indulging in Sicilian sites and cuisine!

Cefalù is a lovely beachside town outside Palermo with a lively square, wonderful food, a sandy beach, great shopping and people-watching. Some of our guests enjoyed visiting with the locals, some shopped and others made a beeline for the beach after enjoying a lunch of fresh fish, grilled vegetables and pasta.

We headed to Ballaró Market for a culinary walking tour with our leaders, Claude & Cristina Baud. Ballaró is the oldest market in Palermo dating back 1000+ years. With food purveyors calling out their goods for sale, it’s a lively scene full of local culture. The vegetables, fruit, meats, nuts, olives and cheeses were divine. Have you ever tried three kinds of pistachios? We tasted Sicilian street foods along the way and picked up items for our upcoming picnics.

The Anna Tasca Lanza Cooking School in central Sicily is a 150-year old farmhouse and cooking school started by the late Anna Tasca Lanza. Anna brought classic Sicilian cooking to the world drawing upon Sicily’s native ingredients. Today, the school is run by her daughter, Fabrizia. Surrounded by vineyards and gardens, It is a true farm-to-table experience. Each dish is created from the meats, vegetables, fruit, herbs and grains available from their land. We prepared four Sicilian dishes with Fabrizia learning traditional techniques with her ingredients. A walk in the culinary garden was a delight!

The Tasca D’Amerita/Regaleali Estate Winery and the cooking school are both owned by the Tasca family. Tasca/Regaleali produces 4 million bottles of wine per year. The white and red wines made from local grapes (Catarrato, Inzolia, Grillo, Perricone, Nero d’Avola) are divine. We enjoyed a winery tour and tasting led by Regaleali’s sommelier who provided an overview of the Sicilian viticulture of the area. In the remote interior of Sicily, this estate and its scenery are truly magnificent! Regaleali is comprised mainly of vineyards but ancient wheat is also harvested and used for the production of bread and pasta, local sheep graze freely and a very intense extra virgin olive oil is produced from their olive trees.

Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Called Akragas, it became one of the richest and most famous of the Greek colonies dating back to 4th century BC. We wandered among the Doric temples with our historical guide, Giovanna Lombardo (she grew up playing in the area as a child). She taught us about how the Greeks built and lived in Agrigento. The Temple of Concordia is the most well-preserved and intact of the seven temples. We also visited the archaeological museum which contains many remnants of everyday life found at the site.

The southeastern region of Sicily, called Val di Noto, has its own history and culture. In 1693, a major earthquake devastated the area. Extensive rebuilding of towns and cities took place and the architecture of the reconstructed buildings became known as the ‘Sicilian Baroque Style’. We visited the UNESCO-protected hilltop towns of Ragusa, Modica and Syracusa with our historical guide, Carlo Montesante, taking in the ornate architecture of this region. A stop at Cafe Siciliia, the pastry shop of Chef Corrado Assenza featured in ‘Netflix’s Chef’s Table Pastry’, treated us with the best almond granita ever made earth (one person’s opinion)!! More than yum!

Vendicari Nature Reserve is in the southeastern corner of Sicily. Our off-the-beathen-path excursion for the day was to take a walk with a naturalist to learn about the area and the protected African migratory birds. We observed flamingos, cormorants and pelicans in their natural habitat. The water is crystal clear and the lack of people was a delight! Close to this area, is the old fishing port of Marzamemi. Picturesque and filled with quaint shops, restaurants and fishing boats, it is a place not to be missed if you are ever in Sicily! The afternoon called for a shopping spree in which we willingly participated but caught a great end of season sale. This all made for a perfect afternoon!

Set on the eastern coast of Sicily, Mt. Etna is one of the world’s most active volcanos. Referred to as ‘she’ – she sends off steam constantly. The steam can be white, black (ash) or pink (with minerals). The locals worry when she is not steaming. It means something ‘big’ could happen. As was explained to us, residents are actually more concerned about the earthquakes in the area than the volcano due their location on tectonic plates. We took a fall hike through a chestnut forest at the base of Mt. Etna passing lava flows. This area is also a wine-growing region. Our guide led us to her family’s estate, Gambino Winery, where we enjoyed a delicious lunch of local specialties paired with wine. Who can ever forget that pumpkin risotto??

Spending a day on a catamaran off the coast of Taromina was a delight! It was finally a chance to sit, relax and do nothing. Our charter took us to a swimming spot where some of us immediately jumped in while one tried a fishing pole. The water was not really cold but refreshing. Follow that with lunch prepared on board by the captain and his crew: marinated swordfish, pasta with mussels, grilled vegetables, eggplant parmesan, salad and wine – makes for happy guests. The captain raised the sails and we were able to sail past Isola Bella, a rocky island off of the coast of Taormina. All this was accomplished before huge rain clouds appeared. We made it through the entire trip without rain – except for the last day. We were very fortunate as Mother Nature descended on us in a great way the next day!

This was our lovely hotel in Taormina. The main historical part of the city is on an upper level accessed by a cable car or taxi from our hotel. We enjoyed the peace and quiet of being on the water. Taormina is a resort town and quite busy with tourists. In front of the hotel is a beautiful small island creating a protected beachfront complete with small fishing boats going in and out during the day. The water is crystal clear and the sound of the tide was magical at night. What better than to sit back, have a drink (or two) and enjoy this beautiful view at the end of a 12-day tour??

Musings from a Tour Designer: Exotic Morocco (a tour of our tour)

I can’t get Morocco out of my mind. At every turn, it draws you in and holds you there. Maybe it’s the elaborate mosaic patterns everywhere. Maybe it’s the intricate doors that are works of art in themselves. They are scattered along plain, sometimes crumbling walls, but then open into beautiful homes and riads/guesthouses you would never thought imaginable. It’s a land of contrasts and mixed emotions. Most importantly, it’s the people who extend a warm welcome and with their gracious hospitality. I found myself immediately feeling their inner peace – even from those in extreme poverty. I am one of those forever hooked on this exotic country.

Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do constantly as we are traveling. I always say at tour orientation, “I’m responsible for the logistics and organization of this tour and the guides are responsible for the subject matter”. They know the country and can best deliver the information. So, it’s natural that my head is constantly swirling with thoughts like ….Is the group coming together as a team of travelers? Are the guides teaching the guests about the culture and history that surrounds a site or region? How is the pace of the itinerary? Do we need more free time to relax or go out on our own? Are guests experiencing and learning about the food of the country which is so integral to its culture? Are we delivering a quality experience? On and on…. It’s particularly true with this trip to Morocco because, well, it’s Morocco!

We arrived to Tangier in northern Morocco. After a walking tour of the medina (ancient walled city), we visited Cap Spartel at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet. The lighthouse is on a promontory and marks the end of the cape, just 9 miles from Spain. The views of the coastline and sea were stunning. Below Cap Spartel are the Caves of Hercules which is an archeological site. We had a Berber man who grew up playing in the caves as a child, guide us and tell us his stories. There are two openings to the caves: one to the land and one to the sea. The opening to the sea is called the “Map of Africa” because it’s shape looks like Africa.

We headed to Chefchaouen, called the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco’. The city is nestled against the Rif Mountains that run along the northern coast of Morocco The buildings are painted shades of blue, some with intricate tiled designs, down cobbled streets and winding alleyways. This city is fascinating due to its unique charm, warm Berber people, its history and being surrounded by so much blue!

We hiked in Talessemtane National Park in the Rif Mountains one day with guides. The setting was beautiful along a river that was a clear turquoise-jade color. The color is duethe run-off from the limestone in the area. We had two guests who were plant experts on the trip and helped make this hike a naturalist outing identifying trees, plants and herbs along the way. Then, we found a river-side cafe that happened to have tangines cooking right next to the path. Convenience for hikers who get hungry!

Onward to Volubilis, and the ruins of a Roman city dating back to the 3rd century BC. The map shows the extensiveness of the Roman Empire at its height. This Roman city housed 25,000 people and became one the most important municipia (free towns) in its day. Set in an agricultural area, we toured the city – its wide main street for chariots, the remains of its houses with their intact mosaic floors and the beautiful Basilica still so well preserved. The local historical guide explained what life was like for the Romans who lived in Volubilis. So fascinating!

This is Bab Mansour, the main gate and entrance to the Imperial City of Meknes. There are four Imperial Cities in Morocco: Fes, Marrakech, Rabat and Meknes. The Imperial cities were once capitals of Morocco. The current holder is Rabat. We walked the ancient Meknes medina and main square full of stalls, food vendors, street performers and traffic! As our guides said, when you cross the street, you say to yourself, “Praise God!” and go for it. Actually, they stopped traffic and guided us across the street on several occasions. We visited the main square with its many food stalls, street performers and A LOT of action. It was a precursor to visiting Fes and Marrakech but on a smaller scale. Claude led us to Aisha’s, a very, very small restaurant (as in one table with the kitchen in the back). We enjoyed Aisha’s specially prepared Moroccan lunch. She also explained how to make preserved lemons that were featured in her tangines. This was the first course of Harissa Soup. The food is sublime in Morocco with its unique spices combined with fresh vegetables, meats, olives, dried fruits, almonds served with a side of couscous and Berber bread (oh, the bread!). Nothing fancy, but authentic and probably one of the top two meals we had in Morocco. Thank you, Aisha!

I usually don’t write much about our accommodations but our stay at Palais Faraj in Fes was so memorable. The exterior was beautiful and the interior even more so. Every room was a work of Moroccan interior design at its finest. Quite a wonderful hotel if you are ever in Fes!

1The ancient medina of Fes is a labyrinth of 9000+ streets and alleyways – some so narrow they are just wide enough for you alone. Inside are the souks or marketplaces for any tourist to get lost and then be persuaded in to buying a Berber rug or a zillion other things. It’s a shopping mecca. Fortunately, we followed our guides through the medina and didn’t get lost although some would say that’s half the fun! One day in Fes was spent on a walking tour with a local certified history guide to learn about many of its historical sites. The emphasis of the tour was also on Arabic architecture and its intricacies. It is hard to imagine the many mosaic walls, carvings and ornate metal doors were all made by hand usually for a sultan. The palaces, mosques and religious schools are truly remarkable and the architecture is a sight to behold.

The tanneries of Fes are a must-see (and smell). Tanning of leather is a craft with traditions that go back thousands of years. And, they still do it the same way today! The tanning process turns animal hides into soft, rot-proof leather of every color. The odor comes from pigeon poop and other ‘organic matter’ that seals in the color. “Where do they get that much pigeon poop?”, one might ask. They buy it in the market, of course. To offset the odor, just hold a sprig of mint up to your nose. It works! Once tanned, the hides are passed on to the leatherworkers to make many kinds of leather products. Of course, this called for buying matching Moroccan shoes/slippers called “babouches”.

Lachen’s Fes Cooking class was so much fun! After a visit to the marketplace to buy ingredients, the work began. It was a fast-paced cooking class with a lot of teamwork and camaraderie. Chef Lachen taught us to make Zaalouk Salad; Briouates with Goat Cheese & Olives in Puff Pastry; Candied Artichokes with Preserved Lemons & Oranges; Lamb, Prune & Date Tangine, Charmoula (a traditional Moroccan marinade for fish or chicken kebabs) and Pastilla (chicken stuffed in filo dough sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar) . After all that, just sweet Moroccan oranges for dessert sprinkled with cinnamon. More than yum!

This is Dar Ayniwen our beautiful home-away-from-home in the Palmeraie district of Marrakech. Set outside the medina, it is a paradise behind its huge walls and gated entrance. What a delight! We were immediately entranced by the beautiful eclectic rooms, exotic grounds, impeccable hospitality, delicious food and an African bird sanctuary. It was a respite from the busy-ness of Marrakech. From here, guests had free time to visit Majorelle Gardens, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, the Berber Museum and the Marrakech medina on their own. Museums and shopping – a great combination! Plus coming home to this wasn’t so bad…

Jemaa el Fna is the main square of Marrakech. It’s busy all day but really comes alive at night with food stalls, snake charmers, henna artists, musicians, dancers and animal acts. The group went on a culinary walking tour with our guide, Claude, to take in the culture and the authentic local cuisine of the food stalls. Claude wanted everyone to experience Jemaa el Fna like a local as this is the most famous square in Morocco. One of the best ways is also to sit just in a cafe, have a cup of coffee and people-watch. It is truly a sight to behold!

On to the Ourika Valley in the High Atlas Mountains and some downtime…on the way, was a special visit to Paradis du Saffron where a Swiss woman, Christine, recreated her life in Morocco by opening a saffron farm & garden for visitors. The saffron flowers are ready in November when the women harvest the pistils from the flowers. In order for it to be real saffron, look for tiny trumpets at the end of the pistil and a deep red color. Christine has gorgeous gardens with fruit trees, flowering plants, herbs, a bird sanctuary and sweet donkeys who loved our attention. We walked the Barefoot Trail experiencing varied textures on our bare feet. Then, a series of foot baths or pots filled with scented water of thyme, rosemary, rose petals, salt scrub ending with scented argan oil. Happiness is…!

The Chianti Classico region of Tuscany is the heart of the Chianti wine region. It is the region between Florence and Siena with gentle hills, rolling vineyards, olive groves, countryside stone houses and medieval hilltop towns. Known for its panoramic landscapes, rich history, delectable cuisine and Chianti Classico wineries, it is perhaps one the of most beautiful wine regions in the world. Each town has its unique history, architecture and charms. Here a some of the hilltop towns on our tour.

GREVE

Greve the center of the Chianti wine industry. Greve regularly hosts a Slow Food marketplace and the Chianti Classico Expo in its piazza. Piazza Matteotti is lined with attractive shops, wine stores, artisan product shops, restaurants and tasting rooms. There is also a Wine Museum to learn about the history of winemaking in the Chianti Classico region.

PANZANO

Panzano is a small, charming medieval town located on a high ridge surrounded by Chianti Classico vineyards. Panzano’s views are of vineyards dotted with cypress tress, olive groves, and farmhouses. Panzano has range of restaurants and ‘enotecas’/wine tasting shops. It is home of the famous ‘Butcher of Panzano’, Dario Cecchini, featured on The Food Network. Guests will enjoy dinner at his restaurant, La Officina. He is the ‘heart of Panzano’ and a true character!

MONTEFIORALLE
The village of Montefioralle is still enclosed within its original walls. During the Middle Ages, it was one of the largest military and administrative centers in the area. It is believed to date back to 1085 AD. The village itself is virtually free of cars. The cobbled passageways lead to the entrance of its main castle. Vineyards stretch in every direction. Guests will taste at Montefioralle Winery – a small family-owned vineyard.

RADDA

Radda is a classic small Chianti town. Crowning a hill amongst a sea of vines, it is a sunny cluster of haphazard, medieval and thoroughly charming buildings. Its hilltop offers 360-degree panoramas. Chianti Cashmere Goat Farm is a small private agritourism just outside Radda. Snuggled against the hillside is the farmhouse surrounded by unflawed nature, cashmere goats and extraordinary wildlife. Guests will visit the farm, meet the goats and learn how cashmere goats are raised. Owner and ‘goat whisperer’, Nora, makes products from goat fibers such as handwoven scarves, shawls, throws and also goat milk skincare products.

SAN GIMIGNANO

San Gimignano is a walled village halfway between Florence and Siena. It is famous for its medieval towers that rise above all the other buildings. In the height of its glory, San Gimignano’s patrician families had built 72 tower-houses as symbols of their wealth and power. Although only 14 have survived today, San Gimignano still retains its feudal atmosphere and appearance. This town has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

SIENA

Siena is the most southern town on the tour and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city center is distinguished by its medieval brick buildings and fan-shaped central square, Piazza del Campo. The Siena Cathedral, a focal point of the city, is a medieval Roman Catholic church completed around 1370. Its interior and exterior are constructed of distinctive white and dark green marble in alternating stripes. Built in two stages, the Siena Cathedral combines elements of Gothic, Romanesque and Classical architecture. It is not to be missed!

SAN MINIATO

San Miniato is in the province of Pisa. In its history, San Miniato served as a beacon for both friend and foe. Known by the Romans as Quarto, it is set on three dominant hills which served as a strategic lookout to the Arno River and the valley below. Its geographic position was important to north/south travel along the Via Francigena that connected France to Rome during the Middle Ages. This route was traveled by an uninterrupted flow of men, armies, trade and cultures. San Miniato today is the center of Tuscany’s white truffle region. We will follow a 3rd generation truffle hunter and his dog through the woods searching for the ‘diamonds of the land’. Afterward, lunch will be served in his home.

Are you excited to learn more about this charming towns? Join us for our Tuscany and Cinque Terre Tour!

Our Adventures Blog

Musings from a Tour Designer

Complex & Beautiful Sicily (a tour of our tour)

Musings from a Tour Designer: Exotic Morocco (a tour of our tour)

The Most Beautiful Medieval Towns in Tuscany

What is my vision for these foodie tours?