Sahara Desert, 2025

I fell in love with Morocco in 2019 on our first group tour. Maybe it was the sip of sweet mint tea poured from a great height in a Fes cafe. Maybe it was the sweeping views of the Atlas Mountains from our sweet kasbah, dodging donkeys in the labyrinth of the Fes medina or watching the waves crash as we rode camels on the beach in Essaouira. Everything about Morocco feels so thrillingly different. We are now back from this year’s tour full of new amazing experiences, locations and stories to tell. Here are some highlights of our trip just completed last week…

 

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Casablanca

Dar Dada Restaurant, a gem in Casablanca, welcomed guests for the opening night of the tour. This is an authentic Moroccan restaurant in the Casablanca medina with a vibrant atmosphere, wonderful cuisine, live music and belly dancing. Fresh sea bream, a local Mediterranean fish, was on the menu plus other specialties and traditional Moroccan meat and vegetarian tajines. Big smiles from our waiters were appreciated – it was a fun evening!

 

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Volubilis Roman Ruins

The Roman outpost and archaeological site of Volubilis once housed up to 20,000 people. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Volubilis is believed to have been the capital of Mauritania founded in the 3rd century. Ruins of the forum, basilica, houses and the road for the chariots to reach the arch are to be found here. Many of the houses’ mosaic floors are still intact. Volubilis is a must-see when in Morocco!

 

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Fes

Fes is a labyrinth of 9000+ streets and alleyways – it boggles the mind when you are in the thick of the ancient medina! Some alleyways are only wide enough for one person. It is easy to see the Fes medina as medieval, exotic and chaotic. For us, it is…for Moroccans, it is not. Although some buildings in the medina are more than 400 years old, Fes is a perfectly modern and functional city. The group saw the highlights of Fes, walked the medina, visited a famous tea house and toured the historic tanneries where leather hides are dyed as they were 100 years ago. Hint: keep a piece of mint near your nose at all times when visiting the tanneries. The smell is overwhelming the first time. It’s a basic idea, but it works!

 

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Fes Cooking School

The Fes Cooking School, located on the top floor of Palace Amani, was a delight. We shopped at the souks with the head chef for ingredients and spent the afternoon making traditional dishes. It’s the blend of spices with everyday ingredients that creates this unique cuisine. The quality of produce in Morocco also adds to the richness of Moroccan cuisine. Click HERE for the Chicken Tajine Dermera recipe we made at the cooking school. This recipe calls for chicken liver but we didn’t use it and it was still delicious!  The secret of this recipe is to cook over heat for a long time to make the chicken tender.  Serve it in an earthenware tajine pot warmed in the oven. Yum!

 

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Lunch With A Berber Family

The Ziz Valley is a fertile oasis in Mid-Atlas of central Morocco. As we traveled from Fes to the Sahara, it was a lunch stop. The valley itself is a dense canopy of palm trees wedged between striated cliffs. The Ziz Valley is known for growing dates which are harvested once a year and are a source of income for families in the valley. We were treated to lunch in a Berber home, meeting the family, children and two brothers who played music on their handmade goat-skin instruments. They never stopped smiling!

 

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Gnawa Music

Gnawa music of the Sahara is a fusion of sub-Saharan African and North African traditions. The music combines traditional music & dance which is rooted in the religious and cultural heritage of the Gnawa people. It features distinct sounds using instruments like the karkab (a metal rattle), ghembri (a skin-covered lute) and the tbr (a hand-held drum) set to dance. We were treated to this performance near our camp in the Sahara.

 

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Sahara Desert Camp

The Sahara Desert Camp was probably one of the highlights for most everyone on the trip. The desert setting, the culture of the desert, he camels and the camp itself were incredible. The camels are well-trained to follow in a line behind the head walker. The ride was about 1-1/2 hours with a stop along the way. The setting is otherworldly and serene. We arrived at camp as the sun was going down to be greeted by a roaring fire and appetizers (we brought our own wine – Muslims do not drink alcohol). The Bedouin tent for each guest was glamping at its finest with all the amenities. The hosts could not have been more welcoming or gracious. This experience was a lifetime memory…all the comforts of home in the middle of the Sahara!

 

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Aït Ben Haddouu

One of the most iconic sites in Morocco is Aït Bennhaddou, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was once a trading post on the caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech. It is a red mud-brick ksar or fortified village. It would seem frozen in time in the 11th century but it has now been given over to tourists with stalls, shops and galleries. Movie buffs may recognize it from Lawrence of Arabia, Jewel of the Nile, Gladiator and Game of Thrones.

 

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High Atlas Mountains

Ahh..this kasbah is truly special! After several days of travel, we took a day off to relax and regenerate at Kasbah Baba Ourika in the High Atlas Mountains. This was one of my favorite spots on our 2019 tour and I was so happy to return to this slice of heaven….good food, peace, tranquility and listening to the birds sing. Kasbah Bab Ourika affords panoramic views from the top of a mountain with beautiful grounds offering pools, a spa, a labyrinth, hidden sitting areas, a vegetable garden, a library and a resident donkey named Pepito.

 

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Saffron Farm & Botanic Garden

We met Christine, a Swiss woman who upended her life to start a saffron farm and botanic garden in the Ourika Valley. This is a beautiful spot with lush gardens, fruit trees, potted herbs, a wonderful garden restaurant and foot baths of herbs and flowers. Christine has educated many visitors about saffron which she grows on her land. Her saffron is harvested once a year by hand by the local women. There are only three stigmas (female pistils) per flower that are painstakingly removed and dried to make saffron. We learned about imitation safron often sold in the markets (strands can be made of plastic, hair, meat, etc.). Real saffron is expensive and worth every cent.  Crush the threads, steep it in a bit of hot water to release the color and aroma and pour is over rice dishes, stews, soups and even desserts. Her saffron-infused dishes were wonderful!

 

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Marrakech

Our delightful historic guide, Jaouad, led us through Marrakech. This is where having a guide makes all the difference! Marrakech is very busy with traffic, pedestrians and motorcycles darting in and out of in every direction (you never want to go to Marrakech and drive yourself!). We toured the Karouine Mosque from the outside and Bahia Palace from the inside. Bahia Palace is a 19th-century palace that was built by the minister of a sultan for his personal use. With four wives and 24 concubines, he was a busy man!  The palace was named after his favorite wife, Bahia. It is famous for its stunning architecture, intricate mosaics, ornate wooden ceilings and vibrant colors. Each room off the main courtyard housed a concubine.

 

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Shopping in Marrakech

Shopping in the medina is an absolute must when visiting Marrakech and bartering is almost a duty. We hit the stores with Jaouad who led us through the medina with precision and language support. What an afternoon of ‘shopping by committee’. So much fun! We saw antiques, jewelry, a compounding pharmacy, Moroccan clothing, lighting, rugs and all kinds of souvenirs. Needless to say, this was a great way to spend the last day with the group in Marrakech.

 

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Majorelle Garden

Majorelle Garden is a botanic garden in Marrakech that was once the home, grounds and studio of Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Peter Bergé. It is a peaceful oasis of exotic plants, vibrant colors and Moorish architecture. The garden was originally created by the French artist, Jacques Majorelle, who named the distinct cobalt blue color he used extensively in the garden after himself (Majorelle Blue). The garden houses the Berber Museum which showcases the Berber culture. Guests enjoyed a day at Marjorelle Garden and a visit to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum next door.

 

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The Guys

Kudos go out to the men on this trip!  First, to our guest, Ray, who was an exemplary gentleman. His calm demeanor and kindness was so appreciated by the women! Next, to our incredible Berber guide, Omar, who led the tour, connected us with his many contacts along the way and worked alongside me to make this trip happen. His humor and patience are amazing (and he needed a lot of it)!  Our coach driver, Omar –  who we called Omar-y because having two Omars was confusing enough – kept us safe in the cities and on the open road. Thank you, Omary!! Our Fes historic guide, Fatah, was exceptional in his level of knowledge and willingness to share all of it with the group. I am grateful to all of these men who enhanced the trip for everyone.

 

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Our 2025 Morocco Trip is Complete!

If you have always wanted to go to Morocco, check out our ‘Treasures of Morocco’ Private Tour offered any time and for any size group – even solo travelers!

I can’t get  Morocco out of my mind. At every turn, it draws you in and holds you there. Maybe it’s the elaborate mosaic patterns everywhere. Maybe it’s the intricate doors that are works of art in themselves. They are scattered along plain, sometimes crumbling walls, but then open into beautiful homes and riads/guesthouses you would never thought imaginable. It’s a land of contrasts and mixed emotions. Most importantly, it’s the people who extend a warm welcome and with their gracious hospitality. I found myself immediately feeling their inner peace – even from those in extreme poverty. I am one of those forever hooked on this exotic country. Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do constantly as we are traveling. I always say at tour orientation, “I’m responsible for the logistics and organization of this tour and the guides are responsible for the subject matter”. They know the country and can best deliver the information. So, it’s natural that my head is constantly swirling with thoughts like ….Is the group coming together as a team of travelers? Are the guides teaching the guests about the culture and history that surrounds a site or region? How is the pace of the itinerary?  Do we need more free time to relax or go out on our own? Are guests experiencing and learning about the food of the country which is so integral to its culture?  Are we delivering a quality experience?  On and on…. It’s particularly true with this trip to Morocco because, well, it’s Morocco!

We arrived to Tangier in northern Morocco. After a walking tour of the medina (ancient walled city), we visited Cap Spartel at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet. The lighthouse is on a promontory and marks the end of the cape, just 9 miles from Spain. The views of the coastline and sea were stunning. Below Cap Spartel are the Caves of Hercules which is an archeological site. We had a Berber man who grew up playing in the caves as a child, guide us and tell us his stories. There are two openings to the caves: one to the land and one to the sea. The opening to the sea is called the “Map of Africa” because it’s shape looks like Africa.

We headed to Chefchaouen, called the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco‘. The city is nestled against the Rif Mountains that run along the northern coast of Morocco The buildings are painted shades of blue, some with intricate tiled designs, down cobbled streets and winding alleyways. This city is fascinating due to its unique charm, warm Berber people, its history and being surrounded by so much blue!

We hiked in Talessemtane National Park in the Rif Mountains one day with guides. The setting was beautiful along a river that was a clear turquoise-jade color. The color is due the run-off from the limestone in the area.  We had two guests who were plant experts on the trip and helped make this hike a naturalist outing identifying trees, plants and herbs along the way. Then, we found a river-side cafe that happened to have tangines cooking right next to the path. Convenience for hikers who get hungry!

Onward to Volubilis, and the ruins of a Roman city dating back to the 3rd century BC. The map shows the extensiveness of the Roman Empire at its height. This Roman city housed 25,000 people and became one the most important municipia (free towns) in its day. Set in an agricultural area, we toured the city – its wide main street for chariots, the remains of its houses with their intact mosaic floors and the beautiful Basilica still so well preserved. The local historical guide explained what life was like for the Romans who lived in Volubilis. So fascinating!

This is Bab Mansour, the main gate and entrance to the Imperial City of Meknes. There are four Imperial Cities in Morocco: Fes, Marrakech, Rabat and Meknes. The Imperial cities were once capitals of Morocco. The current holder is Rabat. We walked the ancient Meknes medina and main square full of stalls, food vendors, street performers and traffic! As our guides said, when you cross the street, you say to yourself, “Praise God!” and go for it. Actually, they stopped traffic and guided us across the street on several occasions. We visited the main square with its many food stalls, street performers and A LOT of action. It was a precursor to visiting Fes and Marrakech but on a smaller scale. Claude led us to Aisha’s, a very, very small restaurant (as in one table with the kitchen in the back). We enjoyed Aisha’s specially prepared Moroccan lunch. She also explained how to make preserved lemons that were featured in her tangines. This was the first course of Harissa Soup. The food is sublime in Morocco with its unique spices combined with fresh vegetables, meats, olives, dried fruits, almonds served with a side of couscous and Berber bread (oh, the bread!). Nothing fancy, but authentic and probably one of the top two meals we had in Morocco. Thank you, Aisha!

I usually don’t write much about our accommodations but our stay at Palais Faraj in Fes was so memorable. The exterior was beautiful and the interior even more so. Every room was a work of Moroccan interior design at its finest.  Quite a wonderful hotel if you are ever in Fes!

1The ancient medina of Fes is a labyrinth of 9000+ streets and alleyways – some so narrow they are just wide enough for you alone. Inside are the souks or marketplaces for any tourist to get lost and then be persuaded in to buying a Berber rug or a zillion other things. It’s a shopping mecca. Fortunately, we followed our guides through the medina and didn’t get lost although some would say that’s half the fun!  One day in Fes was spent on a walking tour with a local certified history guide to learn about many of its historical sites. The emphasis of the tour was also on Arabic architecture and its intricacies. It is hard to imagine the many mosaic walls, carvings and ornate metal doors were all made by hand usually for a sultan. The palaces, mosques and religious schools are truly remarkable and the architecture is a sight to behold.

The tanneries of Fes are a must-see (and smell). Tanning of leather is a craft with traditions that go back thousands of years. And, they still do it the same way today! The tanning process turns animal hides into soft, rot-proof leather of every color. The odor comes from pigeon poop and other ‘organic matter’ that seals in the color. “Where do they get that much pigeon poop?”, one might ask. They buy it in the market, of course. To offset the odor, just hold a sprig of mint up to your nose. It works! Once tanned, the hides are passed on to the leatherworkers to make many kinds of leather products. Of course, this called for buying matching Moroccan shoes/slippers called “babouches”.

Lachen’s Fes Cooking class was so much fun! After a visit to the marketplace to buy ingredients, the work began.  It was a fast-paced cooking class with a lot of teamwork and camaraderie. Chef Lachen taught us to make Zaalouk Salad; Briouates with Goat Cheese & Olives in Puff Pastry; Candied Artichokes with Preserved Lemons & Oranges; Lamb, Prune & Date Tangine, Charmoula (a traditional Moroccan marinade for fish or chicken kebabs) and Pastilla (chicken stuffed in filo dough sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar) . After all that, just sweet Moroccan oranges for dessert sprinkled with cinnamon. More than yum!

This is Dar Ayniwen our beautiful home-away-from-home in the Palmeraie district of Marrakech. Set outside the medina, it is a paradise behind its huge walls and gated entrance. What a delight!  We were immediately entranced by the beautiful eclectic rooms, exotic grounds, impeccable hospitality, delicious food and an African bird sanctuary.  It was a respite from the busy-ness of Marrakech. From here, guests had free time to visit Majorelle Gardens, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, the Berber Museum and the Marrakech medina on their own. Museums and shopping – a great combination!  Plus coming home to this wasn’t so bad…

Jemaa el Fna is the main square of Marrakech. It’s busy all day but really comes alive at night with food stalls, snake charmers, henna artists, musicians, dancers and animal acts. The group went on a culinary walking tour with our guide, Claude, to take in the culture and the authentic local cuisine of the food stalls. Claude wanted everyone to experience Jemaa el Fna like a local as this is the most famous square in Morocco. One of the best ways is also to sit just in a cafe, have a cup of coffee and people-watch. It is truly a sight to behold!

On to the Ourika Valley in the High Atlas Mountains and some downtime…on the way, was a special visit to Paradis du Saffron where a Swiss woman, Christine, recreated her life in Morocco by opening a saffron farm & garden for visitors. The saffron flowers are ready in November when the women harvest the pistils from the flowers. In order for it to be real saffron, look for tiny trumpets at the end of the pistil and a deep red color. Christine has gorgeous gardens with fruit trees, flowering plants, herbs, a bird sanctuary and sweet donkeys who loved our attention. We walked the Barefoot Trail experiencing varied textures on our bare feet. Then, a series of foot baths or pots filled with scented water of thyme, rosemary, rose petals, salt scrub ending with scented argan oil. Happiness is…!