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Treasures of Peru & Lake Titicaca Group Tour
October 1-12, 2024

Nov 18, 2024 By Patty Moss

Peru is complex. As a destination, it offers breathtaking landscapes, natural beauty, an ancient history, a living culture and welcoming people. The Inca civilization lives on today in every sense of the culture. The historic sanctuary of Machu Picchu is a wonder no one should miss. It is a mega-biodiverse country with many specimens of plants and animals. The cuisine is exquisite based on the wealth of local produce and the fusion of international flavors. Lima offers some of the best restaurants in the world. Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake, is where you can experience the indigenous Uros people living on floating islands. What is not to like (maybe the traffic in Lima)? There is a lot to love.

 


 

Barranco & Miraflores Districts Lima

 

The Barranco District is known as the SoHo of Lima. It is one of the city’s hippest neighborhoods with colorful street art, vibrant old mansions, tucked-away coffee shops & bars, art galleries and plenty of bohemian vibes. We made our way across the Puente de los Suspiros (The Bridge of Sighs) taking a deep breath and sighing once across so our wish would come true. We then headed to the Miraflores District to Lover’s Park on the boardwalk that runs along the cliffs of Lima. With spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean, Lover’s Park is home to El Beso, a sculpture by famed Peruvian artist, Victor Delfin. Gaudi-inspired mosaic walls with phrases and poems about love run along the park. Lover’s Park was chosen by National Geographic as one of the most romantic places in the world.

 


 

Central Restaurant
Lima

 

A few of the guests decided to take a free evening and dine at Central Restaurant in Barranco. Central is a 3* Michelin restaurant that was named the World’s Best Restaurant in 2023. Innovation and presentation is the theme here with 13 meticulous courses served featuring ingredients from Peruvian ecosystems categorized by altitude – from below sea level in the Pacific Ocean to the high peaks of the Andes.

 


 

Home & Studio of Víctor Delfin

 

Víctor Delfín is one of the leading sculptors and painters in Peru. He is best known for his large sculpture, El Beso, in Lover’s Park. We were fortunate to be given a private tour of his home and studio in Barranco. It is situated cliffside with sweeping views of the ocean. The outside patio walls are lined with his paintings and sculptures are around the pool and on the terraces. His home is a gallery of his life’s work. A replica of El Beso sits outside his studio window. Now 96 years old and still working, we were honored to have met him.

 


 

Lima Culinary Tour

 

Our evening culinary tour made stops at select Lima restaurants. The first was Calla open to the beach with the sound of the waves crashing below. This set the backdrop to memorable dishes such as Sea Bass Ceviche cooked in tiger’s milk and Carpaccio of Sea Bass with Avocado. The fish was so light, fresh and delicious! Many Peruvian dishes incorporate the large white kernels of corn grown in Peru which gives the dish a nice texture. We also dined at Huaca Pucclana situated at the base of Pre-Columbian ruins illuminated at night.

 


 

Chinchero Weavers

 

The original weavers at the Center of Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTP) were fascinating in their tradition and art. We learned how sheep and alpaca wool are cleaned, naturally dyed (from roots, plants, berries & insects), spun into yarn and woven into fine textiles. The mamachas’ learn as young girls from the older master weavers and work their way up the ranks to become experts. It takes many years and dedication to become a mamacha. Weaving one blanket or shawl is tedious work and can take six months to complete. It was a cold day and we were met with coca tea and wool shawls – a very warm welcome indeed!

 


 

Sol y Luna
Urumbamba

 

Urumbamba, in the heart of the Sacred Valley, is home to Sol y Luna Hotel. This is a property that is worth mentioning for those who want to travel to Peru. Guests stay in casitas and are surrounded by grounds covered in flowering plants, shrubs and artwork. If ever in the Sacred Valley, be sure to check out Sol y Luna.  It is a delight and a beautiful property!

 


 

El Huacatay Cooking Class
Urumbamba (The Sacred Valley)

 


Busy, fascinating & eclectic Pio Vasquez… he is the owner and master chef of El Huacatay Restaurant in Urumbamba. What a treat it was to meet him and work in the courtyard of his restaurant! His signature dish is Causa which he has probably made hundreds of times. Causa is made in a mold by layering mashed potato, seasoned shrimp, homemade sauce, fresh avocado and topped with another layer of potato. Pio uses basil oil, herbs, capers and other seasonings in the dish. We enjoyed our creation with a passionfruit Pisco Sour…more than yum!

 


 

Urumbamba Market

 

Pio took us to the Urumbamba Market and introduced us to the astounding cornucopia of produce in the region. Peru has very unique geography with the Pacific coast, the Andes Mountains and the Amazon rainforest. These elevations allow unique produce to flourish. He introduced us to the purple kernel corn used to make chicha morada, a traditional Peruvian drink. The white large-kernel corn/choclo is from the Andes and consumed in many Peruvian dishes. Dehydrated or sun-dried potatoes/chuno are rehydrated to make Andean soups and stews. Local fruits include: aguaje – a sweet fruit from a palm tree which is used in jams, ice creams and other sweets; lucuma which resembles an avocado but has soft orange pulp; and aguaymanto, a tart fruit related to the tomatillo with a paper-like leaf surrounding it.

 


 

Machu Picchu

 

We had the most fantastic guide for our time in the Sacred Valley. Miguel is a local, certified Peruvian guide with a sense of humor and a superb level of knowledge. He led us through Machu Pichhu with fascinating details of the history and stories of the Incas. It is almost hard to imagine how they built this Inca fortress and the way it was discovered. The park now has circuits to filter visitors in one direction on paths through the park. Each circuit is at a different elevation.. We were toward the top of Circuit 2 when the sky opened and nature dealt us a significant hail storm. Rain is common in the afternoons at Machu Picchu but I did not expect hail, too. You really do have to be prepared for any kind of weather in the Andes! Machu Picchu is jaw-dropping and, NO, photos do not do it justice. It is a place everyone should experience in their lifetime. (The bottom panoramic photo is from Circuit 1 on the trail to the Sun Gate).

 


 

Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel

 

We were fortunate to stay at Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel on its own 12 acres in the cloud forest on the outskirts of Aguas Calientes. The hotel is tucked into the hillside of Aguas Calientes and is surrounded by tropical plants, native trees, waterfalls and many species of birds. I was able to take a morning nature hike with a hotel guide to do a little birdwatching. You could hear the Andean cock-of-the-rock/tunki calling to each other. It was an early and beautiful start to the day. This is the main square in Aguas Calientes. It is a bustling town full of tourists waiting for the buses to go up to Machu Picchu or returning from the site. The ride up on the bus (and I mean really up), is a 30-minute drive to reach the entrance to the park.

 


 

Vista Dome Train
(Cusco-Aguas Calientes-Cusco)

 

No Inca Trail for us…but, we could see the hikers on the trail from the train. We took the Vistadome train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes and back. On the return, we were entertained by a live band and two Peruvian dancers. They demonstrated traditional dance but also got everyone up to dance with them. It was such a surprise as we thought we would have a quiet/sleepy return back from Machu Picchu to Cusco. Not so…who ever heard of dancing in a conga line through train cars on a moving train?! It put a smile on everyone’s face and made the return time fly by. Plus, the scenery of the Andean peaks and Urumbamba River breezing by is truly remarkable.

 


 

Ollantaytambo & The Pachamanca

 

The town and ruins of Ollantaytambo are significant in Inca history. This is the site where the Incas built their fortress and fought off the Spaniards. You can see the height of the terraces at these ruins. The Incas at the top and the Spaniards on horses and on foot below – the Incas could see them approaching from above. The terraces were also used to grow crops and are an exemplary display of intricate Inca rockwork. Across the valley from the ruins are the storage houses built into the hillside where they stored their grain and crops. After visiting Ollantaytambo, we were treated to a group pachamanca or a traditional meal of meat, potatoes and vegetables cooked in a stone pit. The meal had cooked all day and we were there in time to watch them uncover the feast.

 


 

The Llama Farm

 

Oh, the llamas! Miguel took us to a llama, alpaca and vicuna farm. We learned how to differentiate between these animals. They are fun creatures to watch and feed. They eat cut grass, spit and fight with each other over it even when it seems they are smiling the entire time.

 


 

Cusco

 

Cusco is a fascinating, cultural city with so much history. Once the ancient capital of the Inca Empire, it still preserves the remnants of the most important civilization. Ancient history can be felt in every corner of the city throughout the streets and in the plaza. The Cusco Cathedral is nothing short of amazing. It is in three sections each with unique architecture, relics, statues and hundreds of colonial paintings. Located on Plaza de Armas, it is today, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Two wonderful restaurants we visited in Cusco were Cicciolina for dinner and Pachapapa for lunch. Go there, if ever in Cusco!

 


 

Sazsaywaman Fortress

 

Sazsaywaman, pronounced sack-sigh-wah-man, is an Inca fortress outside Cusco built during the reign of the emperor Pachacuti in the 15th century. Sazsaywaman was built using more than 5000 stones ranging in size from small to immense. It is difficult to imagine how an ancient civilization could transport stones with these weights and dimensions. The construction was carried out by more than 20,000 men and took about 15 years to complete. The stones were moved from quarries, were not cut but were shaped using harder stones and bronze tools in order to fit together without mortar. The stones were placed using ropes, poles and levers. It is awe-inspiring to stand next to one of these stone walls and witness how perfectly the pieces fit together. The Incas were engineers as seen in the construction of these walls that have stood the test of time – even through earthquakes.

 


 

Titilaka Lodge
Lake Titicaca

 

Making our way to Lake Titilaka from Cusco meant two domestic flights connecting through the chaotic LIma airport. Getting to this remote hotel after landing in Juliaca was an additional 1-1/2 hour drive. I felt like I was on the edge of the world; Bolivia is across the lake. Perched right on the water, Titilaka is a blend of luxury and serene natural beauty. Some of us took their boat excursion to Uros Island. We learned how the indigenous people make their homes, boats and the islands themselves from the totara reeds that grow on the shore of the lake. The guide demonstrated how they cut the roots of the reeds into blocks that form the foundation of the island and naturally float. They then place layers of cut reeds on top of the root blocks creating the base of the island to which they add their houses (see the photo of the model island). I don’t think I will ever forget walking on the island as it squishes under your feet. It was hard to find balance. We watched the women making soup while sitting on the ground. The women go to the market weekly in Puno to buy the provisions they need. Otherwise, they are full-time residents on the island year-round. Interestingly, they have cell phones and have recently put solar panels on their huts for heat. It was fascinating to be a small part of island life on this particular day on Lake Titicaca – truly a beautiful experience!

 


 

Sunset over Lake Titicaca on the last night…
Goodbye and thank you to the people who welcomed us. This is a special place on earth!

Filed Under: Peru

Musings of a Tour Director: Maine 2022

Sep 17, 2022 By Patty Moss

Maine – it’s a classic summer vacation but this one had some unique twists. Bar Harbor, Acadia trails, sailing on a 1922 vintage schooner. the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens and a couple of busy days in Portland with history guides, lighthouses and culinary stops. All made for an enjoyable trip for guests, some of which had never sailed or been to Maine. With a group of four good friends and some new ones + a daughter, there were many memorable experiences we all hold. Who can beat the cool sea air, watching the sailing wizards at work, seeing the coastline breeze by and tasting Maine’s fresh farm-to-table cuisine?

 


 

Acadia National Park

A day in stunning Acadia with a walk on Ocean Path, Cadillac Mountain summit, stops in Northeast Harbor and Asticou Gardens. Lobster rolls and creative salads, too.

 


 

Schooner Ladona, Rockland

A 4-day sailing cruise, stunning Penobscot Bay scenery on a beautiful wooden sail boat/yacht. Anna, our chef, prepared 3 full meals/day complete with charcuterie trays and wine every evening. Captain JR Braugh and crew did an amazing job sailing the boat. (Almost) no rain – what a gift! Everyone loved the ‘gathering spot’ over good food complete with party lights – so much silliness and many good belly laughs!

 


Evenings on the Schooner

Always good conversation, new friends and wine! A great time to throw all our cares away.

 


 

The Captain & Crew’s Onshore Lobster Bake

The best lobster anyone had ever eaten – freshly steamed in seaweed – eating lobster on the beach with your fingers, butter running down – I am convinced lobster will never be the same.

 


 

Simple Daily Activities

Onshore visits to fishing villages, paddleboarding and swimming. Very chilly water and very starry nights! Some thought ahead and brought their sleeping bags to sleep on deck. I love that no one took themselves too seriously, turned off their phones (most of the time) and got back to basics.

 


 

Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens

The beautiful botanical gardens in Boothbay Harbor. They were founded by locals who had a great idea and made it happen. It is still run by local volunteers. Some of it is on the coast. Do not miss this if ever in the area!

 


 

Portland

Lighthouses, historic sites, the working harbor and glorious food. Hand-cut Belgian duckfat fries, craft beer, Standard Baking Company treats and the BEST closing dinner at Scales Restaurant!

“There is nothing that brings me more joy than to see a group of people make new friends through shared travel experiences! My job is complete.” ~ Patty

 

Filed Under: Maine, USA

17 Reasons Everyone Should Visit New Zealand (At Least Once)

Sep 16, 2022 By Patty Moss

jacinda-ardern

New Zealand’s Prime Minster, Jacinda Ardern

New Zealand is one of the most sought-after destinations in the world. With snow-capped mountains, stunning beaches, ancient glaciers, rainforests, fiords, a rich history, copious amounts of wine and cutting-edge cuisine, it doesn’t get much better. In short, everyone should visit New Zealand at least once in their lifetime. Here’s why…

 


 

kiwi-people

Kiwi People

Kiwis – the name derives from the kiwi bird, the native flightless bird that is the national symbol of New Zealand. New Zealanders are known as Kiwis – an endearing name for its people. Kiwis are friendly and down-to-earth people who embrace the spirit of hospitality. With a patchwork history of Māori, European, Pacific Islands and Asian influences, the Kiwis are a melting pot of cultures. Kiwis share in the values of politeness, caring and supporting each other. They love the great outdoors and delight in activities that make the most of their spectacular landscapes. How can you embrace the spirit of the Kiwi people? Strike up a conversation and see what happens!

 


 

Indigenous Maori People

Indigenous Maori People

There aren’t many places in the world that preserve and respect their indigenous culture as New Zealand. The Māori were the first inhabitants of New Zealand arriving over 1000 years ago. Originating from Polynesia, the Māori culture influences the history, language, arts and traditions of New Zealand’s identity. Learn about their fascinating myths and legends from passionate Māori guides, visit a ‘marae’ (meeting/celebration grounds), watch a cultural performance or observe Māori woodcarvers and weavers at work.

 


 

Beautiful Beaches

Beautiful Beaches

Countless amazing beaches line the coastline of New Zealand. The islands are known for their jaw-dropping stretches of sand and azure waters. From the whitest sand beach (then kick it up a notch) to beautiful golden sand beaches to those that look you are in Thailand, the choices are incredibly scenic and inspiring. They are often framed by hiking trails, lush forests, giant ferns, volcanic rock, vineyards and cityscapes.

 


 

World famous wines

World Famous Wines

Much of the fame with New Zealand wines comes from the Malborough region on South Island and one varietal – Sauvignon Blanc. Other regions that produce notable wines are: Hawkes Bay (Bordeaux-style reds, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris), Central Otago (Pinot Noir, Rosé) and Waiheke Island (reds and whites).

 


 

Glaciers

Glaciers

There are many glaciers in New Zealand. Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers are the largest and located relatively close to each other on the west coast of South Island. They descend down from the Southern Alps and flow almost to sea level. They are the only two glaciers in the world surrounded by rainforest. Visitors can hike to the base of the glaciers, take a scenic helicopter ride, walk on the top or heli-ice climb.

 


 

Native Wildlife

Native Wildlife

New Zealand is home to some of the most diverse wildlife you’ll ever see. Native birds, marine mammals (whales, dolphins, sea lions, fur seals, yellow-eyed penguins), fish and reptiles – are some of the many unique critters to discover. The iconic kiwi (lower case if talking about birds vs. humans), is flightless, has hair-like feather and strong legs but no tail. New Zealand is known as the seabird capital of the world and is also home to forest birds that live nowhere else on earth. There are no snakes, deadly spiders, killer jellyfish or other venomous creepy crawlies in New Zealand.

 


 

New Zealand Lamb

New Zealand Lamb

In New Zealand, there are more sheep than people. New Zealand is the main producer of lamb in the world. Lamb from New Zealand is smaller than American lamb. It is grass-fed throughout its life and tends to have a more pronounced flavor. It is slaughtered at a younger age. So, despite a lack of grain feeding and lesser marbling, it is tender and delicious.

 


 

Walking and Hiking

Walks and Hikes

Walking and hiking in New Zealand is the best way to see/explore the wilderness and variety of landscapes. With thousands of miles of tracks, there are walking and hiking experiences to suit all levels of fitness. Welcome to a walker’s paradise, where a network of trails wind past rugged coastlines, through farmlands, river valleys, towering forests, around lakes and dramatic mountain ranges. If there is a special place or something remarkable to see, you can be sure there’s a short walk or day hike close by.

 


 

Aoraki Mount Cook

Aoraki Mount Cook

Aoraki (Māori for ‘cloud piercer’) Mount Cook National Park is New Zealand’s Mount Everest. At 12,218 feet, It is alpine in the purest sense. The area boasts skyscraping peaks, glaciers and permanent show fields. Although Mount Cook (in the Southern Alps range) encompasses 23 peaks almost 10,000 feet high, it is very accessible. Mountaineers, heli-skiers and skiers love this region while less skilled adventurers find plenty of satisfaction with the mountain walks that lead to alpine meadows, herb fields and spectacular glacier views. Encounters with the ‘kea’ (mountain parrots) are part of the fun.

 


Wine & Cheese Tasting

Wine & Cheese Tasting

Taste your way around New Zealand and you’ll discover food and wine that’s original, world-class and fresh from the source. Kiwis have developed a discerning palate when it comes to wine reflected in the number of high-quality wineries and vineyards throughout the country. New Zealand is also famous for its cheeses. Hard cheese, soft cheese, blue cheese and everything in between are produced locally and enjoyed with domestic wines. 

 


 

Pristine Lakes

Pristine Lakes

New Zealand’s crystal blue lakes will astound anyone who sees them. New Zealand has the largest collection of the most beautiful rivers and lakes in the world. From serene waters to hot springs to geothermal pools, the natural beauty is unparalleled. Lakes in New Zealand will make you believe in heaven!

 


 

Fresh seafood platter at a restaurant on the harbour at Queenstown, New Zealand

Fresh Seafood

Fresh, diverse and delicious – Kiwis love their food. With over 8600 miles of coastline, New Zealand offers some of the most amazizng seafood. Talented chefs have developed a distinct Pacific Rim cuisine. Expect to indulge in plenty of seafood like fresh fish, Green-Lipped, mussels, Rock lobster, Bluff oysters, scallops and abalone. Crayfish and Mt. Cook Salmon are freshwater options. Enjoy the friendly, laidback atmosphere wherever you eat. Although there are many gourmet restaurants, Kiwis still love to keep things light.

 


 

Fiordland

Fiordland

Fiordland is one of the most dramatic and breathtaking regions of New Zealand. Fiordland National Park is the UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes Milford, Dusky and Doubtful Sounds. Milford Sound was described by Rudyard Kipling as the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’. Situated on the west coast of South Island, hours from the nearest town, is Milford Sound where plunging cliffs and cascading waterfalls meet inky dark waters. Within the steep and narrow glacially-carved valleys is a treasure-trove of ecological delights. Watch dolphins, seals and penguins play in the water or sit under the waterfalls. The waterfalls are especially spectacular on rainy days. Milford Sound is the ‘gem’ of New Zealand!

 


 

Manuka Honey

Manuka Honey

In the forests of New Zealand, bees collect nectar from the Manuka flower which only blooms a few weeks a year. Manuka honey is becoming increasingly revered by natural health consumers around the world. The Māori have used Manuka honey for its therapeutic and medicinal abilities for centuries. It has been shown to have antibacterial and antimicrobial properties. Nature’s most powerful honey is used for immune support, digestive and gut health, antioxidant protection, for soothing coughs/sore throats and for increased energy. When sterilized, it can be used for healing infections and wounds.

 


 

Lush Forests & Waterfalls

Lush Forests & Waterfalls

New Zealand is a land of rivers, mountains and lakes. So, it naturally has forests and many amazing waterfalls. Some are an easy stop on the road and others require a hike. Some can be swum in while others can only be viewed from a distance. Spilling from high mountain lakes or tumbling over rocky river beds, shrouded by damp native forest or cascading over steep cliffs, New Zealand’s waterfalls offer something for everyone. Forests cover 20% of the total land area. Most of that is indigenous forest which is protected and not harvested. The Kauri forests are a green world of huge ancient towering kauri trees and rare birds.

 


 

Geothermal Pools & Geysers

Geothermal Pools & Geysers

Geothermal pools and geysers are spectacular and rare around the world. There are approximately 58 in New Zealand. Their steaming plumes, bubbling waters, craters and colorful mud pools are concentrated in the Rotorua-Taupo region of North Island. These have been shaped and colored by volcanic and geothermal forces for thousands of years. Orange-lined hot springs, neon green lakes, erupting geysers, trees wearing a coat of orange crystals…see them, hold your nose and grab your camera!

 


 

Extreme Adventure Sports

Extreme Adventure Sports

If adventure sports and extreme activities are your thing, there is no end to them in New Zealand. Queenstown is known as the ‘Adventure Capital of the World’. Choose from bungy jumping, jet boating, skydiving, zip-lining, off-road driving, white-water rafting, climbing, rappelling, caving, heli-skiing and more. If you can’t do it, you can often watch. Who wants to go home, anyway?

Filed Under: New Zealand

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Reasons to Travel with Pack a Fork!

  • Small group tours - no more than 15 guests + two guides and one tour director for a more personal experience
  • Guides who are experts on the culture of the region, food, wine, art, history, the language and local customs
  • Staff who truly care about guests receiving more than they anticipated
  • Tours that include must-see sites and off-the-beaten path experiences
  • Trips that are about learning, camaraderie and fun with the, always necessary, down-time added to the itinerary
  • Gourmet food experiences from meals in restaurants and cafes to hands-on cooking classes and gourmet picnics - always with local artisan foods
  • Wine education and tastings in a particular region
  • Visits to local marketplaces to learn about artisan foods and products
  • Carefully selected private dining experiences that are varied, local and unique
  • Opportunities to try new foods and preparations of the region
  • Local experiences that allow guests to feel a part of the culture by meeting its people
  • Carefully selected accommodations
  • Private transportation on a chartered coach for traveling across country
  • Walking, hiking and other outdoor activities
Contact Pack a Fork! LLC • Phone: 303-593-1680 • Email: info@packafork.com