Day 1, Thursday: After taking a luxury coach to our hotel, Hotel Jazz Barcelona, we enjoyed some tapas and drinks on the rooftop with 360-views of Barcelona! After a siesta and then our Pack a Fork orientation, we rambled along Las Ramblas to dinner at the oldest restaurant in Barcelona, CAN CULLERETES (built in 1768!!) After many delicious dishes there, including two kinds of local squid (!), fish and prawns, we sauntered back through the Gothic quarter, marveling over the drama of the ancient buildings and squares, accompanied by the music of street musicians, and under a midnight moon.
Day 2, Friday: First, a jaw-dropping tour of La Sagrada Familia Basilica. Next, our tour guides Claude and Cristina took us to La Boqueria market and showed us the best stalls for spices, meat, cheese and fresh locally-caught seafood, before letting us loose for lunch. We had free time for shopping and touring that afternoon, then strolled the streets on a “tapas crawl,” which ended at the outstanding Els Quatre Gats –a place where Picasso started hanging out at the age of 17!, and that produces possibly the best dessert we have ever had the pleasure of ordering 4 of. We attempted to burn off those chocolate lava cakes by walking to the Ritz Carlton Hotel D’Arts In Barcelona, Spain, where our tour guides’ son, Diego Baud, is the Head Mixologist. A gin tasting and mojito nightcap was the perfect end to a perfect day.
Day 3, Saturday (oh, the days are going by too quickly!!) -: A tour of Gaudi’s La Pedrera and Casa Battlo; a wonderful picnic spread created by our tour guide Claude at Parc Guell; more shopping and art museum visiting; then a Spanish wines tasting/pairing at the fun, funky and very feminine Barceló Raval Hotel.
Day 4 (Sunday,) stone, sand and sea: left Barcelona, sadly, but were quickly cheered by the beautiful drive to the medieval town of Peratallada, where we walked the cobbled streets admiring the stone walls, buildings, and castle. Lunch was a paella feast at long tables under trees. Late afternoon, we arrived at the simply stunning Vistabella Hotel in the picturesque town of Rosas, Cataluna, Spain on the Costa Brava. We spent the rest of the day on our private beach, in the hot tub overlooking the ocean, drinking goblet-sized cocktails on the terrace bars, and sampling locally-caught seafood at one of the hotel’s four restaurants.
Day 5 (Monday,) “a day of awe” -: Woke up to paradise, then spent the morning at the fascinating and incredible Dalí Theatre and Museum in Figueres, his birthplace. We spent the afternoon exploring the quaint fishing village of Cadaques Costa Brava, where Dali spent much of his life, and sampled the local seafood, gazpacho and baked goods. Dinner was another feast on the Mediterranean, this time at Barco del Mar in our Vistabella Hotel, where we were served platter after platter of delights from the sea, as the sun set behind us.
Day 6 (Tuesday) “onward and upward”: One last walk before breakfast along the beach path from Vistabella Hotel to Rosas, Cataluna, Spain; then we headed west, parallel to the border of France, to the medieval town of Besalú for some shopping and sightseeing. Back to the coach for gorgeous views of the Pyrenees along the way, checking into our quaint hotel, Hotel Saurat ESPOT late afternoon. Later, we convened for another convivial dinner adventure at Restaurant Juquim that included snails with three sauces; a plate of fresh local morelles in cream sauce (that we declared quite possibly the best thing we’d EVER eaten,) and surprisingly succulent wild boar.
Day 7 (Wednesday,) “The hills are alive”: Land Rovers took us from Espot toParque Nacional de Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici, up steep roads to a breath-taking hike across streams, alongside green lakes, and crashing waterfalls, all with the peaks of the Pyrenees as a backdrop. And “lest we fade away,” our beloved tour guide/chef Claude set up an incredible picnic on blankets under the pine trees: gazpacho, wine, several kinds of cured meat, cheeses, loaves of bread, green beans, white asparagus, sauces, fruit, meringues and three kinds of chocolate for dessert. Back to the hotel for a siesta, then to dinner at the #1-rated restaurant in town, La Llúpia (Espot) where we had many courses including flaming lamb, pigs feet that took a week to prepare, and a feast of desserts.
“Days of miracle and wonder”: Thursday was going to be the less exciting day of the trip, with 5 hours of driving steep and windy roads through the Pyrenees, but instead it turned out to be stunning vistas around every corner, aquamarine lakes, waterfalls, otherworldly rock formations, and picture postcard villages all along the way. And THEN we visited Bodega Otazu, a gigantic winery with equally gigantic art pieces both inside and out, and a “wine cathedral” – an enormous cave where they store their wine barrels, and play chanting monk music. By the time we got to Donostia – San Sebastián in the Basque country that evening, and our movies-themed hotel Hotel Astoria7, and visited the bustling pinxtos bars bursting with people and overflowing with little bites of delights, we were almost giddy with awe. For dessert we visited La Viña, famous as the home of a Tarta Queso that is lighter then a cheesecake, creamier than a flan, not very sweet, and served with a rich dessert wine.
Day 9 (Friday,) San Sebastian and Brexta Market: A smattering of rain made the air fresh and lovely as we walked along the promenade, and toured the Mercado de la Bretxa: street-level, flowers and produce; underground, all kinds of strange and wonderful seafood, and miles of cured meats. After taking us to tour the nearby market and shop for ingredients, the San Sebastian Food Cooking School took us back to their bright, sleek facility for a hands-on cooking class and late lunch, where we learned there’s no such thing as “too many cooks”. The instructors balanced warmth with expertise while effortlessly keeping all the parts, including us!, well-choreographed. We learned a ton of new cooking tips and techniques while having a blast, and almost effortlessly producing a fantastic multi-course meal that showcased the flavors of the Basque country. (A special hats-off to Claude for fearlessly butchering that giant monkfish!!!)
Day 10 (Saturday,) “Best for last”! -: Arrived at the swanky and artsy Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao in Bilbao, Spain, then walked across the street to the gigantic and gorgeous Museo Guggenheim Bilbao, which Condé Nast Traveler named a “Top 10 Most Beautiful Museum in the World”, in time for our private tour. Our guide led us through huge, rusted-ship-like twisting walls made of iron, and taught us about the differences between minimalism and pop art. That evening, our Farewell Dinner was at Azurmendi, voted #19 in “The World’s Top 50 Restaurants,” in a beautiful building surrounded by vineyards. Azurmendi’s executive chef, Eneko Atxa, is a 3-star Michelin-rated chef and considered a trailblazer in the culinary world of Spain. We drank wines from the grapes grown right there, and “oohed” and “aahed” over shaved squid in squid ink sauce, and a dramatic chocolate dessert served in a swirling waterfall created by dry ice and cava, that cascaded over the entire length of our table. It was almost enough to distract us from our sadness that we would be going home tomorrow!