Peru is complex. As a destination, it offers breathtaking landscapes, natural beauty, an ancient history, a living culture and welcoming people. The Inca civilization lives on today in every sense of the culture. The historic sanctuary of Machu Picchu is a wonder no one should miss. It is a mega-biodiverse country with many specimens of plants and animals. The cuisine is exquisite based on the wealth of local produce and the fusion of international flavors. Lima offers some of the best restaurants in the world. Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake, is where you can experience the indigenous Uros people living on floating islands. What is not to like (maybe the traffic in Lima)? There is a lot to love.

 

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The Barranco District is known as the SoHo of Lima. It is one of the city’s hippest neighborhoods with colorful street art, vibrant old mansions, tucked-away coffee shops & bars, art galleries and plenty of bohemian vibes. We made our way across the Puente de los Suspiros (The Bridge of Sighs) taking a deep breath and sighing once across so our wish would come true. We then headed to the Miraflores District to Lover’s Park on the boardwalk that runs along the cliffs of Lima. With spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean, Lover’s Park is home to El Beso, a sculpture by famed Peruvian artist, Victor Delfin. Gaudi-inspired mosaic walls with phrases and poems about love run along the park. Lover’s Park was chosen by National Geographic as one of the most romantic places in the world.

 

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A few of the guests decided to take a free evening and dine at Central Restaurant in Barranco. Central is a 3* Michelin restaurant that was named the World’s Best Restaurant in 2023. Innovation and presentation is the theme here with 13 meticulous courses served featuring ingredients from Peruvian ecosystems categorized by altitude – from below sea level in the Pacific Ocean to the high peaks of the Andes.

 

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Víctor Delfín is one of the leading sculptors and painters in Peru. He is best known for his large sculpture, El Beso, in Lover’s Park. We were fortunate to be given a private tour of his home and studio in Barranco. It is situated cliffside with sweeping views of the ocean. The outside patio walls are lined with his paintings and sculptures are around the pool and on the terraces. His home is a gallery of his life’s work. A replica of El Beso sits outside his studio window. Now 96 years old and still working, we were honored to have met him.

 

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Our evening culinary tour made stops at select Lima restaurants. The first was Calla open to the beach with the sound of the waves crashing below. This set the backdrop to memorable dishes such as Sea Bass Ceviche cooked in tiger’s milk and Carpaccio of Sea Bass with Avocado. The fish was so light, fresh and delicious! Many Peruvian dishes incorporate the large white kernels of corn grown in Peru which gives the dish a nice texture. We also dined at Huaca Pucclana situated at the base of Pre-Columbian ruins illuminated at night.

 

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The original weavers at the Center of Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTP) were fascinating in their tradition and art. We learned how sheep and alpaca wool are cleaned, naturally dyed (from roots, plants, berries & insects), spun into yarn and woven into fine textiles. The mamachas’ learn as young girls from the older master weavers and work their way up the ranks to become experts. It takes many years and dedication to become a mamacha. Weaving one blanket or shawl is tedious work and can take six months to complete. It was a cold day and we were met with coca tea and wool shawls – a very warm welcome indeed!

 

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Urumbamba, in the heart of the Sacred Valley, is home to Sol y Luna Hotel. This is a property that is worth mentioning for those who want to travel to Peru. Guests stay in casitas and are surrounded by grounds covered in flowering plants, shrubs and artwork. If ever in the Sacred Valley, be sure to check out Sol y Luna.  It is a delight and a beautiful property!

 

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Busy, fascinating & eclectic Pio Vasquez… he is the owner and master chef of El Huacatay Restaurant in Urumbamba. What a treat it was to meet him and work in the courtyard of his restaurant! His signature dish is Causa which he has probably made hundreds of times. Causa is made in a mold by layering mashed potato, seasoned shrimp, homemade sauce, fresh avocado and topped with another layer of potato. Pio uses basil oil, herbs, capers and other seasonings in the dish. We enjoyed our creation with a passionfruit Pisco Sour…more than yum!

 

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Pio took us to the Urumbamba Market and introduced us to the astounding cornucopia of produce in the region. Peru has very unique geography with the Pacific coast, the Andes Mountains and the Amazon rainforest. These elevations allow unique produce to flourish. He introduced us to the purple kernel corn used to make chicha morada, a traditional Peruvian drink. The white large-kernel corn/choclo is from the Andes and consumed in many Peruvian dishes. Dehydrated or sun-dried potatoes/chuno are rehydrated to make Andean soups and stews. Local fruits include: aguaje – a sweet fruit from a palm tree which is used in jams, ice creams and other sweets; lucuma which resembles an avocado but has soft orange pulp; and aguaymanto, a tart fruit related to the tomatillo with a paper-like leaf surrounding it.

 

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We had the most fantastic guide for our time in the Sacred Valley. Miguel is a local, certified Peruvian guide with a sense of humor and a superb level of knowledge. He led us through Machu Pichhu with fascinating details of the history and stories of the Incas. It is almost hard to imagine how they built this Inca fortress and the way it was discovered. The park now has circuits to filter visitors in one direction on paths through the park. Each circuit is at a different elevation.. We were toward the top of Circuit 2 when the sky opened and nature dealt us a significant hail storm. Rain is common in the afternoons at Machu Picchu but I did not expect hail, too. You really do have to be prepared for any kind of weather in the Andes! Machu Picchu is jaw-dropping and, NO, photos do not do it justice. It is a place everyone should experience in their lifetime. (The bottom panoramic photo is from Circuit 1 on the trail to the Sun Gate).

 

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We were fortunate to stay at Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel on its own 12 acres in the cloud forest on the outskirts of Aguas Calientes. The hotel is tucked into the hillside of Aguas Calientes and is surrounded by tropical plants, native trees, waterfalls and many species of birds. I was able to take a morning nature hike with a hotel guide to do a little birdwatching. You could hear the Andean cock-of-the-rock/tunki calling to each other. It was an early and beautiful start to the day. This is the main square in Aguas Calientes. It is a bustling town full of tourists waiting for the buses to go up to Machu Picchu or returning from the site. The ride up on the bus (and I mean really up), is a 30-minute drive to reach the entrance to the park.

 

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No Inca Trail for us…but, we could see the hikers on the trail from the train. We took the Vistadome train from Cusco to Aguas Calientes and back. On the return, we were entertained by a live band and two Peruvian dancers. They demonstrated traditional dance but also got everyone up to dance with them. It was such a surprise as we thought we would have a quiet/sleepy return back from Machu Picchu to Cusco. Not so…who ever heard of dancing in a conga line through train cars on a moving train?! It put a smile on everyone’s face and made the return time fly by. Plus, the scenery of the Andean peaks and Urumbamba River breezing by is truly remarkable.

 

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The town and ruins of Ollantaytambo are significant in Inca history. This is the site where the Incas built their fortress and fought off the Spaniards. You can see the height of the terraces at these ruins. The Incas at the top and the Spaniards on horses and on foot below – the Incas could see them approaching from above. The terraces were also used to grow crops and are an exemplary display of intricate Inca rockwork. Across the valley from the ruins are the storage houses built into the hillside where they stored their grain and crops. After visiting Ollantaytambo, we were treated to a group pachamanca or a traditional meal of meat, potatoes and vegetables cooked in a stone pit. The meal had cooked all day and we were there in time to watch them uncover the feast.

 

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Oh, the llamas! Miguel took us to a llama, alpaca and vicuna farm. We learned how to differentiate between these animals. They are fun creatures to watch and feed. They eat cut grass, spit and fight with each other over it even when it seems they are smiling the entire time.

 

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Cusco is a fascinating, cultural city with so much history. Once the ancient capital of the Inca Empire, it still preserves the remnants of the most important civilization. Ancient history can be felt in every corner of the city throughout the streets and in the plaza. The Cusco Cathedral is nothing short of amazing. It is in three sections each with unique architecture, relics, statues and hundreds of colonial paintings. Located on Plaza de Armas, it is today, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Two wonderful restaurants we visited in Cusco were Cicciolina for dinner and Pachapapa for lunch. Go there, if ever in Cusco!

 

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Sazsaywaman, pronounced sack-sigh-wah-man, is an Inca fortress outside Cusco built during the reign of the emperor Pachacuti in the 15th century. Sazsaywaman was built using more than 5000 stones ranging in size from small to immense. It is difficult to imagine how an ancient civilization could transport stones with these weights and dimensions. The construction was carried out by more than 20,000 men and took about 15 years to complete. The stones were moved from quarries, were not cut but were shaped using harder stones and bronze tools in order to fit together without mortar. The stones were placed using ropes, poles and levers. It is awe-inspiring to stand next to one of these stone walls and witness how perfectly the pieces fit together. The Incas were engineers as seen in the construction of these walls that have stood the test of time – even through earthquakes.

 

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Making our way to Lake Titilaka from Cusco meant two domestic flights connecting through the chaotic LIma airport. Getting to this remote hotel after landing in Juliaca was an additional 1-1/2 hour drive. I felt like I was on the edge of the world; Bolivia is across the lake. Perched right on the water, Titilaka is a blend of luxury and serene natural beauty. Some of us took their boat excursion to Uros Island. We learned how the indigenous people make their homes, boats and the islands themselves from the totara reeds that grow on the shore of the lake. The guide demonstrated how they cut the roots of the reeds into blocks that form the foundation of the island and naturally float. They then place layers of cut reeds on top of the root blocks creating the base of the island to which they add their houses (see the photo of the model island). I don’t think I will ever forget walking on the island as it squishes under your feet. It was hard to find balance. We watched the women making soup while sitting on the ground. The women go to the market weekly in Puno to buy the provisions they need. Otherwise, they are full-time residents on the island year-round. Interestingly, they have cell phones and have recently put solar panels on their huts for heat. It was fascinating to be a small part of island life on this particular day on Lake Titicaca – truly a beautiful experience!

 

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Sunset over Lake Titicaca on the last night…
Goodbye and thank you to the people who welcomed us. This is a special place on earth!