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EXOTIC MOROCCO: Our Spring 2019 Tour

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I can’t get  Morocco out of my mind. At every turn, it draws you in and holds you there. Maybe it’s the elaborate mosaic patterns everywhere. Maybe it’s the intricate doors that are works of art in themselves. They are scattered along plain, sometimes crumbling walls, but then open into beautiful homes and riads/guesthouses you would never thought imaginable. It’s a land of contrasts and mixed emotions. Most importantly, it’s the people who extend a warm welcome and with their gracious hospitality. I found myself immediately feeling their inner peace – even from those in extreme poverty. I am one of those forever hooked on this exotic country.

Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do constantly as we are traveling. I always say at tour orientation, “I’m responsible for the logistics and organization of this tour and the guides are responsible for the subject matter”. They know the country and can best deliver the information. So, it’s natural that my head is constantly swirling with thoughts like ….Is the group coming together as a team of travelers? Are the guides teaching the guests about the culture and history that surrounds a site or region? How is the pace of the itinerary?  Do we need more free time to relax or go out on our own? Are guests experiencing and learning about the food of the country which is so integral to its culture?  Are we delivering a quality experience?  On and on…. It’s particularly true with this trip to Morocco because, well, it’s Morocco!
We arrived to Tangier in northern Morocco. After a walking tour of the medina (ancient walled city), we visited Cap Spartel at the entrance to the Strait of Gibraltar where the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea meet. The lighthouse is on a promontory and marks the end of the cape, just 9 miles from Spain. The views of the coastline and sea were stunning. Below Cap Spartel are the Caves of Hercules which is an archeological site. We had a Berber man who grew up playing in the caves as a child, guide us and tell us his stories. There are two openings to the caves: one to the land and one to the sea. The opening to the sea is called the “Map of Africa” because it’s shape looks like Africa.  
We headed to Chefchaouen, called the ‘Blue Pearl of Morocco‘. The city is nestled against the Rif Mountains that run along the northern coast of Morocco The buildings are painted shades of blue, some with intricate tiled designs, down cobbled streets and winding alleyways. This city is fascinating due to its unique charm, warm Berber people, its history and being surrounded by so much blue! 
We hiked in Talessemtane National Park in the Rif Mountains one day with guides. The setting was beautiful along a river that was a clear turquoise-jade color. The color is due the run-off from the limestone in the area.  We had two guests who were plant experts on the trip and helped make this hike a naturalist outing identifying trees, plants and herbs along the way. Then, we found a river-side cafe that happened to have tangines cooking right next to the path. Convenience for hikers who get hungry!
Onward to Volubilis, and the ruins of a Roman city dating back to the 3rd century BC. The map shows the extensiveness of the Roman Empire at its height. This Roman city housed 25,000 people and became one the most important municipia (free towns) in its day. Set in an agricultural area, we toured the city – its wide main street for chariots, the remains of its houses with their intact mosaic floors and the beautiful Basilica still so well preserved. The local historical guide explained what life was like for the Romans who lived in Volubilis. So fascinating!
This is Bab Mansour, the main gate and entrance to the Imperial City of Meknes. There are four Imperial Cities in Morocco: Fes, Marrakech, Rabat and Meknes. The Imperial cities were once capitals of Morocco. The current holder is Rabat. We walked the ancient Meknes medina and main square full of stalls, food vendors, street performers and traffic! As our guides said, when you cross the street, you say to yourself, “Praise God!” and go for it. Actually, they stopped traffic and guided us across the street on several occasions. We visited the main square with its many food stalls, street performers and A LOT of action. It was a precursor to visiting Fes and Marrakech but on a smaller scale. Claude led us to Aisha’s, a very, very small restaurant (as in one table with the kitchen in the back). We enjoyed Aisha’s specially prepared Moroccan lunch. She also explained how to make preserved lemons that were featured in her tangines. This was the first course of Harissa Soup. The food is sublime in Morocco with its unique spices combined with fresh vegetables, meats, olives, dried fruits, almonds served with a side of couscous and Berber bread (oh, the bread!). Nothing fancy, but authentic and probably one of the top two meals we had in Morocco. Thank you, Aisha!
I usually don’t write much about our accommodations but our stay at Palais Faraj in Fes was so memorable. The exterior was beautiful and the interior even more so. Every room was a work of Moroccan interior design at its finest.  Quite a wonderful hotel if you are ever in Fes!
1The ancient medina of Fes is a labyrinth of 9000+ streets and alleyways – some so narrow they are just wide enough for you alone. Inside are the souks or marketplaces for any tourist to get lost and then be persuaded in to buying a Berber rug or a zillion other things. It’s a shopping mecca. Fortunately, we followed our guides through the medina and didn’t get lost although some would say that’s half the fun!  One day in Fes was spent on a walking tour with a local certified history guide to learn about many of its historical sites. The emphasis of the tour was also on Arabic architecture and its intricacies. It is hard to imagine the many mosaic walls, carvings and ornate metal doors were all made by hand usually for a sultan. The palaces, mosques and religious schools are truly remarkable and the architecture is a sight to behold. 
The tanneries of Fes are a must-see (and smell). Tanning of leather is a craft with traditions that go back thousands of years. And, they still do it the same way today! The tanning process turns animal hides into soft, rot-proof leather of every color. The odor comes from pigeon poop and other ‘organic matter’ that seals in the color. “Where do they get that much pigeon poop?”, one might ask. They buy it in the market, of course. To offset the odor, just hold a sprig of mint up to your nose. It works! Once tanned, the hides are passed on to the leatherworkers to make many kinds of leather products. Of course, this called for buying matching Moroccan shoes/slippers called “babouches”. 
Lachen’s Fes Cooking class was so much fun! After a visit to the marketplace to buy ingredients, the work began.  It was a fast-paced cooking class with a lot of teamwork and camaraderie. Chef Lachen taught us to make Zaalouk Salad; Briouates with Goat Cheese & Olives in Puff Pastry; Candied Artichokes with Preserved Lemons & Oranges; Lamb, Prune & Date Tangine, Charmoula (a traditional Moroccan marinade for fish or chicken kebabs) and Pastilla (chicken stuffed in filo dough sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar) . After all that, just sweet Moroccan oranges for dessert sprinkled with cinnamon. More than yum!
This is Dar Ayniwen our beautiful home-away-from-home in the Palmeraie district of Marrakech. Set outside the medina, it is a paradise behind its huge walls and gated entrance. What a delight!  We were immediately entranced by the beautiful eclectic rooms, exotic grounds, impeccable hospitality, delicious food and an African bird sanctuary.  It was a respite from the busy-ness of Marrakech. From here, guests had free time to visit Majorelle Gardens, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum, the Berber Museum and the Marrakech medina on their own. Museums and shopping – a great combination!  Plus coming home to this wasn’t so bad…
Jemaa el Fna is the main square of Marrakech. It’s busy all day but really comes alive at night with food stalls, snake charmers, henna artists, musicians, dancers and animal acts. The group went on a culinary walking tour with our guide, Claude, to take in the culture and the authentic local cuisine of the food stalls. Claude wanted everyone to experience Jemaa el Fna like a local as this is the most famous square in Morocco. One of the best ways is also to sit just in a cafe, have a cup of coffee and people-watch. It is truly a sight to behold! 
On to the Ourika Valley in the High Atlas Mountains and some downtime…on the way, was a special visit to Paradis du Saffron where a Swiss woman, Christine, recreated her life in Morocco by opening a saffron farm & garden for visitors. The saffron flowers are ready in November when the women harvest the pistils from the flowers. In order for it to be real saffron, look for tiny trumpets at the end of the pistil and a deep red color. Christine has gorgeous gardens with fruit trees, flowering plants, herbs, a bird sanctuary and sweet donkeys who loved our attention. We walked the Barefoot Trail experiencing varied textures on our bare feet. Then, a series of foot baths or pots filled with scented water of thyme, rosemary, rose petals, salt scrub ending with scented argan oil. Happiness is…!

 

 

 

Musing of A Tour Designer: Our 2018 Greece Tour

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Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do a lot in the moment and after I return home. I try to design my tours in the same way I would put together a family trip – with memorable experiences. Our tour to mainland Greece and the Greek islands of Mykonos and Santorini was truly unforgettable. First, the wonderful group! We were a group of 11 women and one man. These were individuals who bonded quickly, gave of themselves when needed, cared for each other and generally embraced the concept of group travel. We had guests from California, Ohio, South Carolina, New Jersey and Colorado. We had two sets of sisters and two repeat clients. Most started off not knowing each other but made friends quickly and have now gone home with 10+ (new) good friends  As I often say, this is more like a group of friends traveling together than the standard ‘canned’ tour.  Seeing people learn through immersive cultural experiences and sharing in that joy with newly-made friends is the greatest reward I could ask for. Thank you to everyone who joined us on another adventure ~ one we will not forget!  

 

We arrived to Athens in a Medicane – a Mediterranean hurricane. The rain and wind was an unusual weather pattern they were experiencing in Greece and we ‘enjoyed’ it for all three days we were there! Nevertheless, we persisted. We visited the Acropolis with a certified Greek guide who was an expert in archaeology and Greek history. The winds were 45mph and the rain did not stop. What better way to visit the Acropolis!? Our guide was a delight and extremely knowledgeable about the Acropolis, its temples and the artifacts in the Acropolis Museum. We learned so much and it was a day we will all remember! 

 

We headed north from Athens to Delphi. Delphi is one of the most important historic sites in Greece. The ancient Greeks considered Delphi to be the ‘center of the world’. They went to Delphi to consult Pythia, the Oracle, who gave advice on everything from when to plant crops to whether to go to war. She sat in Apollo’s Temple, the ruins you see here. Visitors would line up to see her. This site and museum are well worth a visit. Out guide unraveled the mysteries and history surrounding this important Greek site.

 

 

 

 

 

Onward to Kalambaka and the Meteora monasteries in mainland Greece. This area is magical with monasteries built on top of and amongst great rock outcroppings. Beginning in the 14th century, nomadic Greek Orthodox monks built monasteries as a way to create isolation, peace and protection. The monks built them using only ropes, pulleys and baskets and would raise access when they needed to escape invaders. They still use cable cars today (replacing the old baskets) to move people and goods between the monasteries. We had a wonderful hiking guide who entertained and informed us the whole way! 

 

We flew from Athens to Mykonos, a short 35-minute flight. That evening was spent in Chora/Mykonos Town doing some much-anticipated island shopping, eating and imbibing of Greek wines. We visited the Kato Windmill overlooking Little Venice where we dined on the waterfront. It was so lovely to sit and watch the sunset with new friends, enjoy freshly caught fish and take in the magic of this Greek island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OPA!  It was a lively Greek Night on Mykonos! Our guests had a great time watching the show and participating in traditional Greek dancing! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A day spent sailing on a private catamaran is good for the head and the heart! We sailed to two protected coves off Mykonos, swam and enjoy a magnficient lunch on board! 

 

Santorini is simply breathtaking! The white cubiform buildings lining the cliff of the volcano, the views across the caldera, the sparkling sea and the flowers in bloom everywhere are something photos do not adequately convey. Oia, on the tip of the island, is a shoppers’ paradise filled with boutiques and trendy restaurants. Guests loved having some free time to discover the island on their own. This is the sunset one night looking across the caldera from my room – now forever etched in my memory!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Santorini wines are some of the best Greek wines. Grapes grow in  the volcanic soil and absorb the warm sunshine producing wonderful wines. Guests spent the day with a sommelier touring a vineyard, tasting and learning about Santorini viticulture. They then participated in a hands-on cooking class making traditional Santorinian fare: fava dip, tomato fritters, Cretan salad and pork cooked with wild herbs in a local wine reduction sauce. Yum! It was a perfect last day to an incredible 12-day adventure in Greece!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Musings From Our 2018 Tour

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Our Basque, Pyrenees & Rioja Tour
Reflecting on a tour I’ve designed is something I do a lot in the moment and after I return home. Our tour to the Basque Country of Spain & France and the Rioja winemaking region of Spain will be on my mind for months to come.  We had a wonderful group of women from California, North Carolina and Colorado. As I often say, this is more like a group of friends traveling together than the standard ‘canned’ tour. Some were friends who had signed up together. All became friends through this kind of travel and its shared experiences. Seeing people learn through immersive cultural experiences and sharing in that joy with newly-made friends is the greatest reward I could ask for!  Thank you to everyone who joined us on this adventure ~
 
 
The Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is not only an amazing work of architecture but hosts a wonderful collection of modern art. We learned about this Frank Gehry masterpiece and its exterior sculptures including ‘Puppy’ and “Mamam’.  We enjoyed the permanent exhibits as well as the current exhibit on view: Chagall – The Breakthrough Years, 1911-1917.
 
This is our group at the first night’s Welcome Dinner in Bilbao. Ad Hoc Cascanueces is a well-regarded restaurant in Bilbao. We were treated to a presentation by its owner/chef who prefers to ‘guide’ guests to a more personalized experience. Explaining his take on Basque cuisine, he features the local ingredients ‘of the day’. The meal was outstanding and the creative presentation of the dishes was truly memorable! 
 
 
No visit to San Sebastian is complete without a lively ‘Pintxo Hunt’. Pintxos are the Basque version of tapas. The pintxo bars are filled with locals conversing, cozying up to the bar, eating, drinking and just being social. The idea is to never stop moving from one pintxo bar to the next, taking a drink and eating the specialties of the house. We ended at La Viña, well known for their creamy cheesecake enjoyed a with a glass of sherry. If the bar is too full, you just move it outside!
 
Cooking at Mimo San Sebastian was a favorite for everyone. Executive Chef Patricio presented an outstanding experience. We learned how to cook the Basque way – with painstaking attention to detail and presentation. It was such a lovely evening with exceptional food paired with outstanding wines. Many thanks to Patricio for sharing his expertise, patience and hospitality!
 
We visited two French Basque seaside towns: San-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz.The time spent walking along the ocean promenade was a nice change of pace. Of course, a little shopping and a marketplace visit were also necessary! Our guides bought local specialties for our picnic the next day in the Pyrenees!
 
Off to the French Basque Pyrenees…what do you get when you combine a remote French country inn, incredibly beautiful scenery, sheets of rain, a wet hike and an onsite Porche museum? The answer: an adventure!  First the rain: it never stopped for very long but also made everything so green!  It wasn’t a bad thing, just a challenge. We tried to hike but headed back early because the sky was ready to ‘open up’ again. And, it did! What better way to entertain ourselves than with a handy onsite Porsche museum full of exquisite cars? (The owner houses his own plus others.)  Due to the rain, we improvised by holding the picnic in one of our suites complete with a roaring fire, wine and gourmet food. Everyone loved this beautiful inn and our short, but wet stay.  An added bonus – we all had golf carts to get around the property!  
 
Welcome to La Rioja – some call it Spain’s Tuscany. La Rioja has beautiful rolling hills, medieval hamlets and exquisite wines!  The Vivanco Winery & Museum of Wine Culture was a great introduction to the history of winemaking in the region showcasing wine-related equipment, artifacts, artwork and the Vivanco Winery facilities. The museum is dedicated to the history of winemaking and man’s relationship with it over 5,000 years. We enjoyed a beautiful Rioja luncheon in their restaurant featuring traditional Riojan cuisine while overlooking their vineyards. We toured the winery from vineyard to cellar to production facilities. It was a great start to the next few day of our Rioja wine tour. Heaven!
 
Our day of touring architectural wineries/bodegas started at Bodega Ysios designed by architect Santiago Calatrava. Constructed of wood, titanium and glass, it is visually spectacular set against the Cantabrian Mountains.  Wonderful wine tasting with a view!
Bodega El Fabulista is an old family winery set under the medieval town of Laguardia. The system of underground tunnels once used for protection from invaders are now utilized for wine production and storage. The caves provide the perfect humidity and temperature. We toured the caves with the winemaker, learned how to taste wine and sampled. She invited us to come back to stomp grapes during harvest this fall!  Anyone interested?
Bodega Marques de Riscal Hotel which is part of the winery complex is simply breathtaking when you lay eyes on it!  Designed by Frank Gehry of Guggenheim Museum fame, it is constructed of gold, silver and pink titanium with wood, stone and glass. The wines are amazing, as well!  I am including photos of these wines because we can get them in the U.S. Do yourself a favor – they are divine. 
 
We ended our tour at the lovely Bodega Vieja in Rioja. Known for their roasted sucking pig cooked for hours, the tradition is to cut it vertically with a plate – it’s that tender. We didn’t do this but we certainly enjoyed our Farewell Luncheon on the last day. ‘Salud’ to a great group and trip well-enjoyed!